Restaurant

Sake Central

Behind an indigo curtain at the back of the retail emporium
lies a scrupulously minimalist space and a well lit 16-seater bar ensconced within dark blue walls. The compact menu of tapas-like otsumami holds its own against the superlative sake and shochu list, which obviously takes centre stage at Sake Central. Glasses are 60ml, bottles are 720ml unless otherwise stated. Start with a
fresh Tantakatan Red Shiso Kome Shochu from Hokkaido, then move sensibly on to sakes like a Kaze no Mori “Alpha Type 3” Junmai Daiginjo from Nara. A dish titled Ganmo, Tofu, Dashi is a chewy, crunchy dumpling of bean curd that hits the spot with its textural contrast, to be eaten immediately, before its crunchy armour melts in the savoury broth. Homemade pickles lack the umami-laden complexity of Japanese tsukemono, although the crisp green papaya and water chestnut were outstanding relishes. Save room for the buttery uni noodles, Okinawan soba similar reminiscent of linguine, gilded with unctuous orange slabs of sea urchin and miniature marbles of red caviar. Their katsusando stands out with succulent Hokkaido pork marinated with roasted garlic puree, enveloped with a crisp panko breading.