Chef de cuisine Anthony Burd has been quietly building Mercato’s reputation as one of the best restaurants in Hong Kong, with an Italian-focused menu that celebrates classic flavour combinations with just enough culinary sparks to keep things exciting. Take his signature homemade ricotta with strawberry, olive oil and grilled bread; the thick creamy cheese and sweet tangy jam are a match made in heaven, elevating this simple dish to brilliant new heights. Everything we try, from pastas and pizzas to meat mains and desserts, is executed similarly faultlessly, with an impressive wine list too; there are over 200 bottles from both old and new world regions to pick from. The restaurant’s décor is suitably unfussy yet attractive, with exposed brickwork, steel accents and an open kitchen at the back (although the tables are rather close together and it feels a little too dark in the evening); attentive, efficient and well-informed service (we are particularly pleased with the depth of tasting notes our waiter gives with his wine recommendation) rounds off the experience further. Unpretentious, reliably delicious food at reasonable prices can feel like a rarity in this city – which is precisely why we can see ourselves becoming fast regulars at Mercato for many years to come.