Man Wah

High above Central on the upper floors of the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, Man Wah has spent decades refining a particular style of Cantonese dining; formal without stiffness, luxurious without unnecessary flourish. The deep blue dining room looks out across Victoria Harbour, a view that has become almost inseparable from the restaurant’s identity. The kitchen’s strengths lie in its measured handling of premium ingredients. The deep-fried matsutake mushroom pudding arrives unexpectedly light and crisp. A dish of steamed lobster with glass noodles and black garlic is more robust, with the sweetness of the shellfish soaking into the noodles alongside layers of flavour. Meanwhile, the double-boiled South African abalone with figs and cordyceps reflects the patient craft of Cantonese slow cooking, its broth clear, restorative and complex. Service moves with the polish you would expect from a restaurant of this pedigree: attentive, discreet and deeply experienced.

Tatler Tip

Dim sum is served at lunch only, and weekend lunches are the most relaxed time to visit. Families are welcome and the room takes on a lively yum cha atmosphere.