1. Start the day at… Pho Gia Truyen
There is no shortage of pho shops dishing out versions of Vietnam’s de facto national dish, but Pho Gia Truyen stands out as being one of the best with its expertly judged broth, light and bouncy rice noodles, and tender pieces of brisket. It’s not uncommon for the noodle soup to sell out shortly after midday, which means that you have to get there early—7:00 in the morning kind of early. In Vietnam, pho is commonly eaten as a breakfast food, as the delicately spiced soup is restorative, awakening senses and setting the stage for a good day. As you make your way to the front of the queue, you’ll find yourself standing in front of a workstation manned by cooks who dip noodles into piping hot broth before slicing pieces of meat off hunks of brisket right in front of you. It’s very likely that you’ll be confused when it’s your turn to order, as there’s no signage and the clientele is largely local. Fear not, there really are only two items on the menu: pho with either cooked or raw beef. Don’t expect a comfortable dining setting, as tables are communal and low to the ground, so be prepared for some squatting action and beads of sweat during the hot summer months.
Pho Gia Truyen, 49 Bát Đàn, Cửa Đông, Hoàn Kiếm, Cửa Đông Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam; +84 24 6683 3535
2. For a true local flavour, head to… Bun Cha 34
