Ho Lee Fook

Ho Lee Fook has never tried to behave like a traditional Cantonese restaurant, and that’s precisely the point. Tucked beneath its familiar neon signage, the room pulses with music, cocktails and the sort of buzz more often associated with a late-night bar than a place serving roast meats and dim sum. Yet beneath the irreverence lies a kitchen that understands the canon well enough to play with it. Char siu arrives glossy and deeply caramelised, the fat rendering slowly over the grill until the edges take on that smoky sweetness Cantonese barbecue lovers chase. Dim sum follows the same philosophy: rooted in technique but open to reinterpretation. On any given evening, you might find classic forms filled with richer, more decadent ingredients, the kitchen leaning happily into indulgence. What keeps Ho Lee Fook compelling is the contrast. The flavours remain recognisably Cantonese—soy, honey, smoke, fermented depth—but the atmosphere is all attitude. It’s loud, lively and unapologetically modern.

Tatler Tip

For a more spirited take on dim sum, book Good Fortune Club, the monthly Sunday session where the kitchen rolls out playful, limited-edition creations alongside cocktails.