Godenya

Godenya is easy to miss if you’re not looking for it. Tucked down a narrow alley in Sheung Wan, the restaurant reveals itself slowly, with a small wooden counter and barely half a dozen seats. Chef Goshima Shinya builds the evening around a single omakase menu, but the real dialogue here is between food and sake. Each course is served alongside a carefully chosen pour, revealing the remarkable breadth of the drink, from delicate and floral to deep, savoury and almost brothy. The pairings aren’t simply complementary; they reshape the way each dish is experienced. The cooking itself is measured and seasonal. Small plates appear one after another. The occasional nod to Hong Kong ingredients slips into the progression, but the overall sensibility remains unmistakably Japanese: restrained, deeply considered and attentive to balance.

Tatler Tip

The entrance is hidden down a narrow alley off Wellington Street, so arrive a little early the first time. You may walk past it before realising you’re already there.