Cover DoBee Lam of Sếp believes Vietnamese cuisine extends far beyond bánh mì and is intent on demonstrating its depth and range
DoBee Lam of Sếp believes Vietnamese cuisine extends far beyond bánh mì and is intent on demonstrating its depth and range
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Meet the Hong Kong-born, CIA-trained chef behind Sep, who tells us why Vietnamese cuisine is far more layered than most diners realise
There is a steadiness to the way DoBee Lam speaks about food that immediately sets him apart. No grand declarations, no fashionable jargon, no insistence on being categorised. He describes himself, simply, as a creative chef who makes real, unpretentious dishes, adding, matter-of-factly, that “fusion doesn’t apply to me”.
Lam’s path resists the tidy narrative often attached to chefs. Born in Hong Kong, trained at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Napa Valley, and profoundly shaped by seven years living in Vietnam, his education unfolded as much in markets, homes and regional kitchens as in formal institutions. He travelled across communities where flavours, techniques and even the handling of the same ingredient shift from city to city. That long, lived exposure underpins the way he understands Vietnamese cuisine: complex, regional and frequently misunderstood beyond its most exported dishes.
Since joining Sếp as executive chef in 2022, his influence is visible throughout the restaurant. Trained in both the arts and culinary disciplines, he contributed sketches and drawings for the menu, subtly embedding his artistic perspective into the dining experience. The décor, co-designed with the design house, follows the same logic: burnt wood-panelled walls that echo wood-fire cooking, biophilic bamboo elements referencing Vietnam’s natural landscape, and restrained Indochine artworks with golden wall panels that create a cohesive, intentional atmosphere.
Above Bánh tôm, inspired by a northern Vietnamese speciality, with smoked Carabinero and toasted nori
Above Lam reinterprets Gà Quay Hội An, a central Vietnamese roast chicken dish
Bánh tôm, inspired by a northern Vietnamese speciality, with smoked Carabinero and toasted nori
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What distinguishes Lam is his discipline. He speaks of emotion as the starting point of creation, using memory to shape flavour and texture before refining a dish through repetition, while maintaining the historical and cultural foundations that give it integrity.
His background: a Chaozhou father, Taiwanese mother, Vietnamese wife, and years spent living between cultures, informs a measured, clear internal logic: preserve the core of a dish, respect its context and build with restraint. The result is cuisine shaped by lived experience, patience and a sustained engagement with the cultures that inform his work.
You studied both arts and culinary disciplines. Do you think visually first, emotionally first, or instinctively first when you cook?
In culinary creation, emotion is the first step. Usually, through memories and feelings, the taste and texture are reimagined, and through repeated adjustments, a dish that we hope will satisfy our guests and evoke memories is created.
What did living in Vietnam for seven years teach you that short trips never could?
It allowed me to immerse myself in local life. I truly experienced the local food culture, and it also led me to many small communities that most tourists never visit. Vietnam is a large, diverse country, and different cities have distinct cultures and local products. The flavours also vary greatly. So, the biggest benefit of this time was being able to thoroughly understand its unique characteristics.
You’ve cooked Vietnamese food professionally for years, but you also live with someone who grew up eating it at home. How does your wife respond to your cooking, and does she ever challenge your interpretations?
When my wife and I are brainstorming recipes, I often hear ‘no’ after I make a suggestion. But this step is crucial because she also cooks excellent, authentic Vietnamese food, and her background helps me see my blind spots. This allows me to rethink my ideas and create Vietnamese dishes that she can also appreciate. Does she ever challenge my interpretation? Yes, always!
Above Menu sketches personally drawn by Chef DoBee Lam, reflecting his artistic training and hands-on involvement in shaping the restaurant’s visual identity alongside the cuisine
Menu sketches personally drawn by Chef DoBee Lam, reflecting his artistic training and hands-on involvement in shaping the restaurant’s visual identity alongside the cuisine
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Which Vietnamese region most changed the way you think about flavour and why?
Each city in Vietnam has its own unique characteristics, but the culinary traditions, flavours and history of Huế had a significant impact on me. This central city boasts a much more complex and layered cuisine compared to other cities, with a wider variety of cooking techniques. This gives me more room for imagination. I imagine the cuisine of this former imperial city must be incredibly diverse.
You may also like: How to spend 48 hours in Da Nang and Hoi An, Vietnam
Is there something about Vietnamese cuisine, particularly Indochinese Vietnamese cooking, that you wish more diners understood or noticed?
I hope to provide diners with a multi-dimensional dining experience. Vietnamese cuisine is not just about Bánh Mì and Phở. It’s a country that can turn light meals into main courses. Even the same fish can taste vastly different depending on the city where it’s cooked. I also want to tell everyone about the dishes that originated from Indochina, which use better and newer ingredients, have more flavours and employ more cooking techniques.
Do you ever feel you’re cooking between identities rather than representing one, and if so, is that freedom or pressure?
I am very grateful for who I am today. My father is from Chaozhou, my mother is from Taiwan, and my wife is Vietnamese. I grew up in Hong Kong, studied culinary in the States, and then lived in Vietnam. This background allows me to create freely, producing new dishes that are both logical and authentic.
Above Lam in Vietnam, where years of living and travelling across regions shaped his understanding of the country’s diverse and deeply regional food culture
Lam in Vietnam, where years of living and travelling across regions shaped his understanding of the country’s diverse and deeply regional food culture
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You’ve spoken about being inspired by the wood-fire cooking traditions of Vietnam’s hill-tribe communities. What struck you most about the way they use fire?
They didn’t have high-quality charcoal, only the trees and raw materials around them, such as sugarcane. What impressed me most was seeing them smoke wild boar. Using only wood sticks and firewood, along with a few ropes, they created a unique and rustic dish in six hours. Their use of fire was casual and relaxed, without much deliberate calculation, which deeply impressed me as they made a dish with love and time, relying on their intuition.
Fire forces you to surrender a bit of control. Has cooking with fire changed how you behave in the kitchen, or even as a person?
Yes, it has changed me! First, working over a fire is very hot, so you need to be patient; otherwise, your health will suffer, and all the food will burn. Regarding my mindset, many problems in life are just like fire—difficult to control. So, we should try to relax a bit. Fire will eventually be extinguished, and problems will eventually be solved. Be patient and chill.
When creating the menu at Sếp, how do you decide what stays authentic and where you allow yourself to reinterpret?
The creation of each dish is normally based on history and culture. Therefore, some ingredients that cannot be changed must be retained. It’s a must and also a matter of respect. After keeping the core ingredients and taste of each dish, other ideas can be more flexible.
What’s the hardest compromise you’ve had to make cooking Vietnamese food for Hong Kong diners, and what’s a compromise you refuse to make?
There probably won’t be any difficult compromises, because I won’t compromise. Even if I did compromise, my wife wouldn’t! However, over the past three years, most of our guests have been friendly, appreciative of the food and respectful of the team. I appreciate that.
Sếp
Address: 19/F, High Block, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong
Above The dining room at Sếp, where wood-fired cooking, Indochine influences and bamboo-lined interiors come together in a cohesive, art-led setting co-shaped by Lam
The dining room at Sếp, where wood-fired cooking, Indochine influences and bamboo-lined interiors come together in a cohesive, art-led setting co-shaped by Lam
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A storyteller by day and a first-class food devourer by night, Fontaine is the Regional Dining Editor at Tatler Asia, overseeing dining content across all regions and shaping the brand’s editorial voice on food, chefs and culinary culture.
She is also Content Lead for Tatler Best and Co-jury Head for Tatler Best Hong Kong and Macau, guiding the awards’ editorial direction and evaluation process. With over a decade in the lifestyle and media industry spanning London and Hong Kong, she brings a cross-regional perspective to the table.
Follow her on Instagram at @fontimes.
