Cover Kumar’s is based on tradition and heritage, tied together by love and family

Born in Brickfields, Kumar’s is a love story of a mother and her food

Within Brickfields, the perpetually perfumed air lingered with spices—and for Kumar’s especially—it was heavy with love. Kumar’s, now a beloved culinary institution, began in 1969 solely with a mother’s love and a handful of cherished family recipes. 

Kumar’s prides itself on truly unique Malaysian food, with an identity built on community and family. Flipping through to the first page of their menu you’ll find a quote that ends with, “Nothing special, nothing extraordinary, just what Amma cooks at home.”

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Photo 1 of 3 No matter roadside stall or brick and mortar, Kumar's promises are the same
Photo 2 of 3 Get comfortable and dine in style in their locations across KL
Photo 3 of 3 Find classic snacks in the menu

Reflecting its humble beginnings, Kumar’s story began in the small kitchen of the family home, during a time of financial instability and hardship. Cooking through their struggles and sharing their food was how the family found themselves making ends meet. From there, they slowly expanded into a stall in Brickfields, where queues would form before opening hours, a testament to the loyalty and popularity of the food and flavours. 

The recipes that had perfected over years of feeding her family suddenly became the foundation of a business born out of necessity but sustained by excellence. Every dish that emerged from Kumar's humble stall carried the authenticity and care that only comes from true home cooking.

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Above Unchanged recipes and methods for the ultimate flavour
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Above Get a taste of the familiar with the highest of quality

As Kumar’s quickly became more than just a small stall in Brickfields, the daily ritual of queues piqued the attention of many, and slowly but surely, they moved into a proper restaurant, where they still uphold the same traditions and techniques into the new space. 

Famed on their menu is their fish curry, a dish that many consider to be legendary and certainly a seminal dish in Kumar's story of success. The secret to the dish has been the same since she started cooking in her home kitchen, and has remained unchanged. 

At the age of 77, the founding matriarch is still playing a key role in the business and its operations. Every chef who walks through the doors of Kumar’s has been personally trained by her, still generously sharing all her secrets to maintain the flavour of love. 

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Photo 1 of 5 Have your pick with their menu with something for everyone
Photo 2 of 5 Try out their array of curries, all made perfectly spiced
Photo 3 of 5 Everything is prepared freshly for the best dining experience
Photo 4 of 5 Fresh produce is the least you can expect in Kumar's
Photo 5 of 5 Pair with your choice of carb, whether it's a roti, chapati, or rice

The commitment to time-honoured recipes and techniques is not just for the sake of flavour consistency, but rather an ode to heritage, all whilst embracing progress. Their core identity remains steeped in every fish curry served, and with every mouthful, the legacy of the family’s story, and their ancestry, lives on. 

In their restaurants within Bangsar Shopping Centre and Mont Kiara, comfort is seamlessly blended into their environment—a far cry from their humble stall in Brickfields, but it retains the exact same charm.

Step into their Kumar's locations across KL and get a glimpse of the skill and tradition woven into their philosophy, all with an unwavering consistency.

Credits

Images: Kumar's

Topics

Keandra H'ng
Senior Writer, Dining & Travel, Tatler Malaysia
Tatler Asia
Portrait of Keandra

Keandra's expertise lies within writing deep dives into the culture and anthropology of food, sometimes with a philosophical twist. With a background in London's F&B consultancy scene, she's excited to be back in Kuala Lumpur to champion the local dining scene.

 

Reach her at keandra.hing@tatlerasia.com, @keandruh