From 25 seats to over 40 in 2 years, and from only local guests to a more diverse crowd, the most challenging aspect for Coda Chef Supasit “Tap” Kokpol is not the methodology but people’s expectations of and their familiarity with Thai flavours.
Coda, run by Kokpol, changes its menu every 3 months or so. Each dish takes about a month from concept to execution. The idea is that it has to look simple but, with Thai flavours, each bite is very complex.
“Customers come in with high expectations. Some want very spicy food, while others may have specific allergies. Our job is to balance the flavours for both Thais and foreigners to ensure quality experiences. That is the most difficult part”. Kokpol replied when Tatler asked about the journey Coda had taken.
The challenge of creating a fine Thai dining experience is, however, something else. It is about what people, who are generally familiar with each dish, expect and find satisfying.
“People’s perceptions of Thai food vary by individual. For example, sweet basil stir fry; some prefer it spicy, some like it sweet, others prefer it salty, and some enjoy it dry roasted. Therefore, one dish can offer a variety of tastes,” Kokpol explained.
Kokpol said the new challenge for Coda is to create even more refined food while retaining its Thai identity. “The risk is that, if we use too many techniques without understanding what we are modifying, it will ‘go south’. It could result in something that the people who eat it would not understand.”
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It’s in the roots
The Kokpol family has been in the seafood industry for many years. Supasit grew up seeing his parents run seafood restaurants, which were offshoots of the family’s fishery business.
His cooking skills really took off when his caretaker cooked the same dinner for him for 5 days in a row, and the taste was not to his liking. This prompted the young boy to grab pots and pans and start cooking, eventually perfecting his own food.
