Cover Dim sum at The Bay by Chef Fei, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Shenzhen
Dim sum at The Bay by Chef Fei, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Shenzhen
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Beneath its shiny, high-tech exterior, our northern next-door neighbour is a culinary playground that integrates innovation with tradition in ways that are as delightful as they are delicious
I am in Shenzhen, desperate for a caffeine hit, but there’s no server at the coffee shop to take my order. Instead, you must scan a QR code to order and pay, and only then does the barista spring into action. Welcome to the future, where your coffee comes with a side of technological bewilderment.
Shenzhen, once a humble farming and fishing enclave on the Hong Kong border, has metamorphosed into China’s Silicon Valley, and is now a sprawling metropolis of over 13 million and a magnet for tourists. This modern marvel, a mere hop from Hong Kong and a gateway to mainland China, never fails to astonish. The city is also a paradise for food lovers—a culinary playground where countless styles of Chinese and international cuisine are at your fingertips, making it worth every moment of exploration.
Take The Bay by Chef Fei at Mandarin Oriental. Here, master chef Huang Jin-hui twirls on the tightrope of tradition and innovation with ease. His crisp, bronzed roast pigeon and exquisite dim sum will make you question why you bother eating Cantonese food anywhere else. Huang’s culinary vision, executed with precision by executive chef Water Tang, balances flavour and texture in every bite. The devil, as they say, is in the delicious details.
Above Yi Pavilion
Above Yi Pavilion
Yi Pavilion
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However, you must also eat elsewhere—there’s far too much good food to be missed. Over at Yi Pavilion, designed by one of Asia’s most in-demand interior architects André Fu, the dining experience transcends the food itself. The interior whispers modern Asian sophistication, while the dishes sing with nostalgia and flavour. Picture steamed yellow croaker fish with preserved cabbage and chilli, and a flawlessly deep-fried clam and abalone puff. You linger, not just for the food but for the sheer pleasure of being there.
Then there’s Yong Fu Xiao Xian, the friendlier sister of Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred Yong Fu. Here, you can savour various signature Ningbo dishes at a fraction of the Hong Kong prices, including the popular raw crab dish in which the chef deftly chops the crustacean into 18 pieces on the spot.
Above Yong Fu Xiao Xian
Yong Fu Xiao Xian
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But if you think Shenzhen is solely about Chinese cuisine, think again. We’re having a Hong Kong reunion at Mesa Casa Latina by Ricardo Chaneton from Mono, which delivers a burst of Spanish flavour and Latin flair with vibrant, shareable dishes like tomato gazpacho and seafood paella that turn every meal into a festive gathering. For Italian aficionados, Terra Madre by Antimo Maria Merone from Estro is your sanctuary. This contemporary Neapolitan haven transforms simple ingredients into culinary poetry, especially with its handmade pasta, in which Merone’s passion for his craft shines through.
Shenzhen is a joy to explore. The city pulses with life, driven by technology and a zest for living that’s infectious. Everything is available at the touch of a button, making it easy to explore, eat and eat some more. So why not answer the call? Your taste buds will thank you.
Above Tomato gazpacho at Mesa
Above Pappardelle at Terra Madre
Tomato gazpacho at Mesa
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A storyteller by day and a first-class food devourer by night, Fontaine is the Regional Dining Editor at Tatler Asia, overseeing dining content across all regions and shaping the brand’s editorial voice on food, chefs and culinary culture.
She is also Content Lead for Tatler Best and Co-jury Head for Tatler Best Hong Kong and Macau, guiding the awards’ editorial direction and evaluation process. With over a decade in the lifestyle and media industry spanning London and Hong Kong, she brings a cross-regional perspective to the table.
Follow her on Instagram at @fontimes.
