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The popular neighborhood ramen-ya’s collaboration with chef Jorge Mendez of Mōdan will only run for a month starting August 18.
Chef Tamura Hiroyuki has always been committed to the art of a well-made bowl of ramen and his Rockwell establishment has been synonymous with excellent yet uncomplicated bowls served in a laidback ambience. However, Tamura-san and Ramen Ron owner Amado Forés have decided to step out of their comfort zone and shake things up a little with their first collaboration.
Chef Jorge was a natural choice for this since his love for the humble comfort food is highly palpable as he serves elevated versions of these in his progressive Japanese fine dining concept Mōdan. Furthermore, he and Forés go way back. “I have known Jorge Mendez for a long time. In many ways, I consider him family,” says the young restauranteur. He, apparently, loves tsukemen (cold thick noodles dipped in hot broth) and coincidentally so does chef Jorge. This would be the first time for Tamura-san to offer a dipping ramen in his restaurant. Interestingly, it is not his favourite style, so it came as no surprise that it took little convincing for him to say yes. During a trip to Japan, the chefs serendipitously ran into one another and visited several tsukemen spots, which led to the idea for the collaboration.
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While calling it “a truly collaborative effort,” Chef Jorge wants to respect the elder ramen master’s domain and it is safe to say that he happily allowed him to take the lead. “Knowing the both of us, he leans towards more traditional flavours which for me I felt I had to honour and respect,” admits chef Jorge. “On the other hand, Tamura-san allowed me to bend some of the concepts as we do in Mōdan.”
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The Ramen Ron x Mōdan Tsukemen features two beloved dishes. The main component is a tori gyokai tsukemen which comes with a hearty serving of cold thick noodles topped with chashu pork, menma bamboo shoots, a ramen egg, and sheets of nori. The noodles are then plunged into a hot dipping broth of pork, “silky fowl,” and bonito adorned with a single gyoza. When the broth starts to get cold, guests can request for a yaki-ishi or a hot stone that is submerged into the broth which instantly reheats it. According to Forés the “stone” releases iron onto the broth which fortifies it, making this somewhat a “healthy” dish, at least in our book.
The tsukemen is accompanied by a side dish of spicy fried chicken bun which is a more substantial alternative to the typical gyoza. “Personally, I am a heavy eater,” chef Jorge confesses, “so I want people to eat something filling and good.” The fluffy white bun catches a crunchy and juicy tori karaage topped with assorted Japanese pickles. The result is a slightly tangy, spicy, and delightfully savoury bun that delivers on flavour and textures.
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There will only be 20 sets available each day, starting August 18,2 2023, Friday. Come early, as this meal is truly filling and will surely sustain even a hearty eater (like chef Jorge) for the rest of the day.
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Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
