Cover Nishikane’s minimalist interior (Photo: Nishikane)
Nishikane’s minimalist interior (Photo: Nishikane)
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Experience 176 years of culinary mastery at Nishikane, where sixth-generation chef Nobuhiro Nishi is honouring his family’s legacy with a new kappo omakase menu and preferred rates on ultra-premium Juyondai sake
In the constantly changing landscape of refined gastronomy, longevity is the rarest ingredient to find. For Nishikane chef Nobuhiro Nishi, upholding his family’s 176-year legacy is no mean feat. As a sixth generation kappo chef of the family, Nishi has carried out this profound responsibility through the constant reinvention of flavours and techniques passed down from his forefathers.
Like his father, Nishi honed his craft within the disciplined walls of his family home, and later took up the coveted opportunity to deepen his mastery as second in command at three-Michelin-starred Ishikawa in Tokyo. Armed with deeper expertise and a broadened vision, the chef chose to extend his family’s legacy from Fukui Prefecture, Japan to the shores of Singapore.
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Above Donabe showered with truffles
Above Seasonal snow crab
Donabe showered with truffles
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Omakase odyssey through time
The restaurant’s intimate 14-seater open counter is where Nishi showcases decades of mastery, moving at clockwork speed as his hands swiftly sculpt each curation for guests seated in front of him. Watching over him from behind is his father’s very own recipe bible, a handwritten, treasure-filled collection yellowed and worn from years of intense studying. Those who prefer to dine in privacy may opt for the private dining room, which seats up to four guests.
Through the flurry of activity, Nishi, known for weaving his heart into each offering, maintains a spirited stream of banter with his cherished guests. He answers every curious inquiry with a gracious nod and tells the story of his family's legacy with passion and flair.
Rooted in the traditional Japanese 24-sekki calendar, the menu at Nishikane is reimagined monthly, and highly dependent on the subtle changes of each micro-season. Just as nature guided the menu at the original Nishikane in 1850, so too is Nishi’s art informed by the spotlighting of ingredients—air-flown weekly from selected markets in Japan—at their peak.
Nishi’s respectful treatment of seasonal harvest is a skillful mix of nuanced yet novel concepts, and classical but modern techniques. Among his many signature showstoppers is the slow-cooked abalone, prepared at a precise temperature for three hours to achieve a texture that is simultaneously tender and sprightly. It is served with a decadent abalone liver sauce that’s intensely flavourful yet elegantly balanced.
For a true edible masterpiece, the chef’s signature chilled soba is as visually captivating as it is palatably irresistible. Served in hand-carved blocks of pristine ice, this umami-rich dish invigorates and refreshes the palate for the indulgent donabe that is to come. The signature donabe features premium Koshihikari rice—steamed using an exquisitely layered dashi recipe from the family vault—crowned with the season’s most prized bounty.
Read more: From Hiroshima to Kyoto: regional okonomiyaki styles worth travelling for
Above Signature ice soba at Nishikane
Above Lavish dessert tray at Nishikane
Signature ice soba at Nishikane
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A legacy reinterpreted
In this milestone year, Nishi has further elevated these storied favourites across a curation of three new omakase programmes. The six-course Lunch Omakase serves as a testament to the chef’s versatility; delicate appetisers and crisp, deep-fried specialities serve as a vibrant prelude to the soulful donabe. For a deeper immersion, the seven-step Degustation Omakase offers a discovery of seasonal gems, transitioning from an ethereal landscape of hand-sliced sashimi to the smoky, robust depths of charcoal-grilled selections.
The highlight of the collection, the nine-course Grand Omakase, is an opulent exploration of Nishikane’s heritage. This journey ventures into the realm of the kitchen’s most prized signatures, from soul-stirring seasonal soups to tender abalone. Each programme offers a heartfelt encounter with the ancient art of kappo, culminating in a theatrical dessert platter designed to transport guests to an exquisite state of cloud nine.
Take the meal to the next level with the cult-status Juyondai sake, an elusive, almost mythical icon with over 400 years of history. In honour of its 176th year milestone, Nishikane is offering guests a 50 per cent privilege on the legendary Red, Black and Gold labels (while stocks last).
This rare offering is a fitting tribute to an institution that transcends time. Nishikane is not just a bastion of century-old traditions, but a living bridge between 19th-century mastery and refined contemporary philosophy.
Credits
Images: Nishikane
