Cover A cook is pulling dough into noodles by hand in a restaurant in the Muslim Quarter of Xi’an (Photo by Zhang Peng/LightRocket via Getty Images)
A cook is pulling dough into noodles by hand in a restaurant in the Muslim Quarter of Xi’an (Photo by Zhang Peng/LightRocket via Getty Images)
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Visit this ancient capital for its rich history, but stay to savour its culinary treasures
When in Xi’an, the ancient and historical heart of the Shaanxi province in China, your taste buds are in for a ride. Renowned for its status as the starting point of the Silk Road, home of the Terracotta Warriors, and enclosed by mighty city walls, Xi’an’s culinary scene is a melting pot of tangy, savoury and aromatic flavours.
The city’s culinary profile reflects one fused from Middle Eastern, Central Asian, and Chinese traditions, evident in the heavy use of cumin and chili in dishes like grilled lamb skewers—a nod to Central Asia—and the sharp, fermented notes of black vinegar in suantang jiaozi (sour and sweet dumplings).
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Placed in the fertile plains of the Wei River Valley, Xi’an benefits from an abundance of wheat, which is why much of its cuisine is centred around dough-based foods. Think of the famed biang biang noodles, roujiamo (a type of meat burger), and dumplings—all essential for providing sustenance for the region's colder winters and agricultural lifestyle.
The influence of the city’s Muslim Quarter is also prominent, introducing Muslim cooking practices, slow-cooked meats, and unique spice combinations that make its dishes distinctly robust. Travellers can usually find certified or trusted Muslim options by looking for the Qingzhen sign. Although formal certification processes exist in Xi’an, much of the assurance relies on cultural practices and community trust, especially in areas like the Muslim Quarter.
These elements create a cuisine that is simultaneously Chinese and yet enriched by the diverse culinary traditions of the Silk Road, offering foodies an experience steeped in history and cultural fusion. Here are some must-try delicacies that showcase the heart and soul of this city.
‘Biang biang’ noodles: a ribbon of flavour
Above ‘Biang biang’ noodles at the Muslim Quarter of Xi’an (Photo: Lynette Ow)
‘Biang biang’ noodles at the Muslim Quarter of Xi’an (Photo: Lynette Ow)
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Biang biang noodles are a staple in Xi’an and loved for their simplicity. The dish is so named after the onomatopoeic sound made while stretching the dough and slapping it against the counter during preparation. The result is wide, hand-pulled noodles that are a textural treat. The dish is usually served with each ribbon drenched in a spicy, garlicky sauce, topped with chilli oil and greens like Chinese chives, scallions or cilantro to contrast the rich sauce. The chewy texture of the noodles paired with the aromatic punch of chilli and garlic and the tender herbaceous notes from the greens will make you come back for more.
‘Roujiamo’: The original sandwich
Above ‘Roujiamo’ is a handheld sandwich or burger readily available on every corner in Xi’an (Photo: Lynette Ow)
‘Roujiamo’ is a handheld sandwich or burger readily available on every corner in Xi’an (Photo: Lynette Ow)
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Above Flaky flatbread stuffed with savoury meat
Flaky flatbread stuffed with savoury meat
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Often called the Chinese hamburger, roujiamo is a must-try in Xi’an. It’s a warm, crispy flatbread stuffed with tender, slow-cooked pork or beef, seasoned with a blend of spices to give you a burst of flavourful, juicy goodness with each bite. This handheld snack can be found anywhere in the city, whether grabbed from a street vendor or enjoyed at a small eatery.
Grilled skewers: a street food staple
Above Grilled skewers are a testament to the city’s vibrant street food culture (Photo: Lynette Ow)
Grilled skewers are a testament to the city’s vibrant street food culture (Photo: Lynette Ow)
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Wandering through Xi’an’s vibrant streets, you’ll find the smoky aroma of grilled skewers wafting through the air. Lamb and beef skewers, marinated with cumin and chilli, are cooked over open flames until perfectly charred. The result is a savoury, slightly spicy snack that’s perfect for on-the-go indulgence.
‘Suantang jiaozi’: dumplings with a tangy twist
Above For a comforting dish with a kick, ‘suantang jiaozi’ is a must (Photo: Lynette Ow)
For a comforting dish with a kick, ‘suantang jiaozi’ is a must (Photo: Lynette Ow)
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For a comforting dish with a kick, suantang jiaozi is a must. These dumplings are served in a hot, sour broth made with black vinegar, chilli oil, and soy sauce. Each dumpling is filled with meat—beef or lamb in the Muslim Quarter and pork in other areas. The tangy broth is especially satisfying as a perfect remedy for Xi’an’s chilly winters as it warms you from the inside out.
Pomegranate juice: nature’s refreshment
Above Pomegranate juice or ‘shiliuzhi’ is pressed fresh on nearly every street corner (Photo: Pexels/Cup of Couple)
Pomegranate juice or ‘shiliuzhi’ is pressed fresh on nearly every street corner (Photo: Pexels/Cup of Couple)
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Xi’an’s streets are dotted with stands selling freshly pressed pomegranate juice, known locally as shiliuzhi. A local specialty and a celebration of the region’s abundant pomegranate harvest, this drink is vibrant in colour and does not disappoint in its refreshing flavour. With its sweet and tangy profile, it boasts a distinctly berry flavor that pairs perfectly with the city’s hearty, savory cuisine. Even in the winter months, when the fruit is out of season elsewhere, Xi’an’s vendors keep this treat flowing.
About
Lynette loves travelling and dancing to Latin music almost as much as she enjoys period films and pastry desserts. She is constantly in search of the perfect nude lipstick and finds her best ideas through walks in nature.
Work
As the Editor-in-Chief of Tatler Malaysia, Lynette leads the content teams for print, digital and social media platforms of the brand. She has over 20 years experience in media, having been editorial director and editor-in-chief for lifestyle titles such as Cleo, ELLE, Esquire, Men’s Health, and Women’s Health.
Follow her on Instagram @lynette_ow or LinkedIn
