Cover La Carinderia Siargao and Manila (Photo: Sonny Thakur)
La Carinderia Siargao and Manila (Photo: Sonny Thakur)
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The couple share their journey from opening their island love song to the local karinderya, to establishing a second branch serving Italian comfort food with a Filipino touch in the heart of Makati
Siargao is no longer the remote island paradise it used to be, now home to many who have fallen for its charms and decided to plant their roots in the surfing capital of Southern Philippines. Stefano and Priscilla Tomasiello were also once just visitors to the tropical destination, until a motorbike tour around the island in 2016 somehow convinced them that they should “cook the food we love and share it with friends.” In their biracial household, that meant Italian and Filipino comfort food, which is what they served—and continue to—in La Carinderia. It began as a passion project, inspired by the simple roadside eatery it is named after, meant to nourish weary tourists looking for the familiarity of pasta while also catering to locals eager to try their unique renditions of Filipino comfort food, such as a tortang talong cotoletta and fresh seafood sizzling on hot plates.
How has the island’s food scene changed since it opened? “It’s levelled up while staying relaxed—better sourcing, more technique and diners who care about origins,” Priscilla says. “From beach shacks to chef-driven spots, quality and comfort now go hand in hand.” She recalls the challenges of opening an Italian concept in a tropical island: “Island life keeps you on your toes: logistics, delivery delays, brownouts, weather and seasonal ingredients. We learned to plan smarter and stay flexible without losing a dish’s soul.” Still, there are silver linings that keep them going, such as a supportive community that keeps them creative and a dedicated local team that is eager to learn.
Still, the Tomasiellos could not help but give in to the demand for them to open a branch where their fans from the city can have easier access to their food. “After almost a decade in Siargao, we were looking for new perspectives and easier access to ingredients for developing our ideas. We grew up in the city (Torino and Manila), so it felt natural for us to set up another home for La Carinderia in Makati, where we also live when we are not in Siargao or Italy. We are quite hands-on and we love knowing our customers, so it’s particularly important for us to be in the restaurant as often as possible,” Priscilla admits.
The Tomasiellos feel perfectly at home in their urban location, situated on the ground floor of a residential high-rise with easy access from the busy Makati street. “Legazpi Village also has a very creative energy and communal spirit, the F&B community is supportive and it reminds us of the early years of Siargao when everyone was about helping each other give something unique back to the community. Many customers had long asked for La Carinderia to be available in the city—now it’s just a quick Tuesday visit away.”
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Above La Carinderia Siargao and Manila's seafood pasta
La Carinderia Siargao and Manila's seafood pasta
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La Carinderia Siargao has such a distinct character that simply uprooting it from its island location and replicating it in the city would not have made any sense. While both restaurants share the same heart and soul, the Tomasiellos wanted each to reflect their respective environments in terms of vibe and design. “In Makati, we wanted to create the feeling of ‘that little Italian restaurant in the village,’ the kind you might stumble upon in a small Italian city street—only here, it’s tucked into Legazpi Village. For the design, we drew inspiration from Makati’s brutalist architecture and Turin’s industrial character, very much designed with the city dweller in mind,” Priscilla explains.
The unique branding they wanted was brought to life by their friend and partner, Dan Matutina. She continues: “Siargao, on the other hand, is much bigger with more seating capacity. We started out in true karinderya style in 2016—a nipa hut with sand floors—and after Typhoon Odette in 2021, we rebuilt while keeping its rustic charm, inspired by quaint Italian seaside towns. It remains warm, relaxed and very connected to the island community.”
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The chefs and owners also wanted the respective menus of both locations to reflect their distinct personalities. Siargao has a wider selection, which includes a multitude of fresh seafood available to them, while Makati, on the other hand, is more curated, with dishes focusing on meat and premium Filipino ingredients from their local partner suppliers. They also allow the city menu to evolve according to the pace of its busy regulars, giving them more reasons to come back and make the restaurant a new favourite neighbourhood joint. Curiously, though, the bestsellers in both locations are the same: Mamma’s lasagna, carbonara, gamberi pasta and tiramisu.
Above La Carinderia Siargao and Manila's pancetta porcini pasta
La Carinderia Siargao and Manila's pancetta porcini pasta
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With the brand gaining popularity after its city expansion, the Tomasiellos vow to continue growing “thoughtfully” so more guests can dine with them. They are thinking of private dining, apericena (aperitivo-dinner) nights, bestseller trays of their tiramisu and lasagna and fun collaborations. They are also passively looking for a bigger space so they can conduct deeper research and development on their menu and host community events—“when the location feels right.”
With a sincere passion for hospitality coupled with their generous spirit, Stefano and Priscilla Tomasiello willingly drop some knowledge, having survived a pandemic and a destructive storm and, despite all that, successfully growing their brand from their quaint island eatery to a trendy dining spot in the central business district. “Culture is everything—hire for attitude, look for passion, then teach the craft. Kindness travels, from the kitchen to the table,” Priscilla says. “And if there is any advice we can give from our humble experience is to keep learning from mentors and mistakes. Create your own path and if you must compete, compete only with yourself.”
Jaclyn Clemente Koppe is a food and lifestyle writer, as well as a consultant to some of the country’s beloved food and beverage brands. Her passion for food and drink is only surpassed by her devotion to her family, most especially to her soulmate, Pepa the poodle.
