Cover Chef Manav Tuli (Photo: Zed Leets / Tatler Hong Kong)
Chef Manav Tuli (Photo: Zed Leets / Tatler Hong Kong)
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Manav Tuli, formerly a chef at the award-winning Chaat restaurant at Rosewood Hong Kong, has partnered with restaurant operator Jia Group to open Leela, a restaurant that pays tribute to India’s rich food heritage
How did you first meet Jia Group’s CEO and founder Yenn Wong?
I was having lunch with chef Agustin Balbi and I asked him how he opened [the Spanish Japanese Michelin- starred restaurant] Andō. He said he spoke to Yenn, and then it came to fruition. I told him I would love to speak to her too, and he connected me. Within ten days, my communication with Yenn started, and it did not stop [laughs].
Were you nervous about this new venture?
With any new beginning, it can be nerve-racking, yes. I was leaving a very well-established restaurant [Chaat], which was doing excellently. Leaving was difficult. My wife asked me: “If everything is going so well at Rosewood, why are you leaving?” She often asks what kind of crazy man she’s married to [laughs]. But you need adventure in your life. Chaat had achieved everything it had to and I was looking for a new challenge. I was with Rosewood for four years and my team was ready for a change too. Being an entrepreneur, and being a partner at Leela, gives me a very different perspective— and it’s a different kind of pressure. I’ve learnt a lot. It’s not just about making food and putting it on the plate. It’s ten times more than that. It’s exciting and it was just the right time.
Above Chef Manav Tuli (Photo: Zed Leets / Tatler Hong Kong)
Chef Manav Tuli (Photo: Zed Leets / Tatler Hong Kong)
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Can you tell us about the inspiration behind Leela and what sets it apart from other Indian restaurants in the city?
When I worked at The Oberoi in Mumbai, I was made to be a jack of all trades; working for an Italian restaurant, then in the all-day dining restaurant; some days I was in the Japanese restaurant. It was upsetting then, as I was being pushed around, but God had a plan: Leela. [In Sanskrit, leela] means the divine play of God. In hindsight, this is how my cooking style has been formulated. I’ve seen how all these different chefs would cook; how they have formulated all their recipes. I would take the original recipes and then add western cooking methods to them and make something new out of it. But I don’t call my food fusion—if it makes you happy to call it that, then fine [laughs].
Who are your mentors?
I’ve always had great teachers. The biggest one is chef Surinder Singh [of Masala World restaurant], who lives in the UK now. He fired me up. I joined the Institute of Hotel Management and Catering Technology in Kerala because no other college would take me, and I just wanted to get out of my house. Even after finishing my degree, I joined a kitchen because I wanted a guarantee that I would get food to eat [laughs]. I was just passing time. My father asked me what I was doing with my life. I wanted to get out of the house because he was very strict. I didn’t know what I was doing. I started as a cafeteria cook at The Trident in Udaipur. I met Surinder Singh there and he put a spark in me. He used to have a big journal filled with brand new recipes. I would ask him questions about it, and that began my love affair with food. Then there was my chef friend from college, Krunal Kelaiya; he would always give me motivational books, like You Can Win: A Step by Step Tool for Top Achievers by the Indian author and motivational speaker Shiv Khera. I never used to read them and now I have a big collection.
How do you ensure that the dishes at Leela are an authentic representation of Indian flavours?
What does authentic mean anyway these days? If your mother makes butter chicken with onion and roasted bell pepper, and everyone loves it, then that’s authentic. “Authentic” is such a grey area for me. Evolution happens; the core ingredients still have to be there.
I try to showcase the cuisine of India, not only from today’s geopolitical boundaries, but even more than that. I always say that our dishes still sing the olden songs of where they came from.
How would you describe the dining experience that guests can expect at Leela?
It’s all about walking into my home. The guest is Bhagwan [“God” in Sanskrit]. I want people to feel comfortable. I don’t want the experience to be transactional.
Any memorable customer feedback since Leela opened its doors on November 7?
When Susan Jung [author and former long-time food and wine editor at South China Morning Post] was here, I got scared. I call her ma’am. I know the experience she has and it puts a lot of pressure on me. I know my chicken is good. I know it’s moist and I’ve tasted the marinade, but I still hope there are no mistakes. But Susan held my hand and she told me the food was amazing. That made my day. Even after all this time, I am still a child at heart.
What is your personal philosophy when it comes to running a restaurant?
I am crazy about discipline. I’m not very disciplined in my life, but the moment I put on my chef ’s coat, a switch goes on and I become extremely disciplined. I am very proud of my team. I want people with a great heart and a great attitude to work with me. I don’t recruit people based on skill level; skills are secondary. We can all learn together.
Finally, what message do you have for diners who are considering visiting Leela?
This is not Chaat 2.0. This is Leela 1.0. People will still compare—I can’t change that. Chaat was about the street food of India and Leela is about the food of royal empires, in my own style. I’ve taken the hard way forward and created a whole new menu. Expect something different. Come with an open mind and I’m sure you will like it.
As Content Director at Tatler Hong Kong, Tara shapes the brand's editorial vision and reports on Asia's most influential figures — from CEOs and business leaders to designers. In her dual role as Head of VIP, she curates star-studded events and builds the relationships and communities that define the brand. Born and raised in the Middle East, she honed her craft in Dubai, crafting communication strategies for luxury brands across the Gulf. Follow her on Instagram @tarasobti.
