How this restaurant is changing diners’ perception of Vietnamese cuisine

While it was at Nobu where she mastered the intricacies of Japanese cuisine, it was at contemporary izakaya chain Zuma which opened her mind about how cuisines could globalise and evolve, pushing her to dig deeper into Vietnamese cuisine. Having said that, her life’s journey and discovery of her heritage inform every dish at Lộ Quậy, with the result being a version of the cuisine that is very different from most preconceived notions. “Our interpretation offers you the authentic flavours of Vietnam with a unique point of view. This food is an invitation to share that world,” she shares.

She invites diners to explore Vietnam’s spectrum of flavours and ingredients with the Discover Menu, comprising a parade of tantalising bites influenced by the land and sea. Take the pho, for instance, a Vietnamese beef broth, which arrives in an unusual palm-sized bowl. In it lies assorted jewels of Wagyu beef—raw brisket, deep-fried honeycomb and omasum tripe—and bean sprout jelly with a tableside pour of an intensely flavourful Southern pho-style broth. Crispy fried beef tendon is added to give texture in between sips of the collagen-rich, gently spiced broth. Contrary to its name, bahn mi doesn’t come in the form of a sandwich but as a moreish one-bite wellington that combines the goodness of grilled Ibérico pork jowl, pork crackling, housemade liver pate, kombu butter and a sprinkle of Maggi seasoning.

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The essence of Vietnamese cuisine lies in sharing delicious food with loved ones, which is why Lộ Quậy has also opted to serve an a la carte menu which consists of classic dishes presented with a modern lens. Her oyster dish, for instance, is sourced from the Hyogo prefecture in Murotsu Bay, Japan, and is steamed, sliced and placed back in the shell with a slow-cooked bone marrow for a richer bite. It is then blanketed in Hollandaise sauce made with a pickle reduction for a touch of tanginess, before it is slightly seared in the broiler and crowned with Caviar Colony Kaluga caviar.

Brown’s New Vietnamese cuisine is a testament that the country’s food can be refined and fancy, while still staying true to its backbone of sweet, salty, sour, spicy, bitter and funky flavours. “If you know Vietnamese food, the flavours are instantly recognisable and there’s an authenticity even though the form has completely changed,” declares Brown. Adds the chef: “If you don’t know Vietnamese food, then we want to introduce it to you and serve you a really tasty meal. Either way, one thing I can say is that if you allow yourself to get lost in the meal, you’ll get to know a really big part of me and the team by the end of dinner.”  While Brown’s food is anchored in Vietnamese flavours, manager and sommelier Clem Mason looks to the globe to curate an expansive beverage list comprising vibrant sparkling wines, sakes, whiskies and cocktails.

What Brown and the team offer at Lộ Quậy is a reintroduction to Vietnamese cuisine—and one that local diners probably have never seen nor tasted before. “We hope to share a taste of my heritage, memories of my youth, the values I was raised with, and the beliefs I hold dear,” quips the chef, and now, we can do so, one delicious dish at a time.

Lộ Quậy
Address: 88 Amoy Street, S(069907)

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