How do top chefs in Asia craft their winning menus?

Royer: Both aspects shape our menu significantly. While ingredients are the starting point of any recipe, our cuisine, while French in DNA, has evolved to reflect a sense of place, drawing inspiration from Asia’s rich culinary heritage through technique, produce, taste and aesthetics.

Pam: Potong is located in a historic building in Bangkok’s Chinatown, which was once my family’s traditional Chinese herbal medicine shop. The restaurant’s concept is deeply tied to this legacy, and the menu reflects that by honouring traditional Thai-Chinese flavours with a modern edge. Each dish tells a story that connects the past to the present. The building’s history and the surrounding neighbourhood’s rich culture are constant sources of inspiration. My goal is for each dish to embody a sense of place, inviting guests to experience both the heritage of the location and the evolution of Thai-Chinese cuisine.

Balbi: They both matter. To make sense of the food in a restaurant, the menu has to align with its concept. There are times when we create a dish that is well within our standards but when we decided that it didn’t fit our concept, we had to drop the idea. Seasons also play a part as ingredients may vary from time to time.

Royer: People often say Singapore has no produce of its own, and while farms here are few, we are proud to work with some of the best who take great pride in their fantastic produce. I think it is our duty, to support and use local ingredients, especially when something is great and available. For instance, an Odette classic is the Promenade à Singapour, which translates to ‘A Walk into Singapore Garden’. It is my tribute to Singapore, featuring a selection of our favourite and finest greens, grown right here on our little red dot. 

Then, there’s the Rosemary Smoked Organic Egg. An Odette signature that is partly inspired by the Singaporean’s fervent passion for wok hei—an intensely smoky and umami flavour found in many iconic local dishes.

Pam: There’s no better way to honour Thailand’s natural bounty and support our community of farmers than by using local ingredients. An ingredient I’m passionate about is Thai duck, particularly from the province of Cha Choeng Sao. Often considered a forgotten treasure, it has an ideal balance of fat and meat, perfect for achieving a crispy skin and tender interior. In Potong’s duck dish, I utilise traditional techniques such as marinating with five-spice and air-drying, then combining these with modern roasting methods. It is my way of celebrating an ingredient that is deeply embedded in its Thai roots while elevating it to a fine dining standard that reflects both tradition and innovation.

Balbi: Having a sense of place is very important and what better way to achieve that than to use local ingredients? Having great relationships with your suppliers is essential too. At Ando, we’ve developed trust with our suppliers and they know what the restaurant needs. This gives us the confidence to explore and experiment with more local ingredients. No dish from Ando is without a local ingredient aspect. It can be a herb, flower, or a main ingredient; our signature dish, my grandma Lola’s caldoso, uses only local rice.

In case you missed it: Embrace and elevate: Chef Pam’s quest to honour her Thai-Chinese roots with Restaurant Potong

Royer: The process always starts with produce as it is the most important element, and my team is instrumental in every step of research and development, from start to finish. We’re fortunate to work with suppliers who take great pride in their produce, giving us the opportunity to play around with new ingredients, flavours and textures. This gives way to a menu that is thoughtfully curated, where seamless flow and complementary taste profiles are key.

Pam: Diversity in flavour, texture, and ingredient is fundamental to creating a memorable dining experience. At Potong, I exercise my philosophy of “5 Elements”, based on salt, acid, spice, texture, and Maillard reaction, when designing each dish. This self-developed framework allows me to create a balanced and cohesive menu that takes guests on a sensory journey. For instance, each dish might have a crunchy element, a creamy sauce, or a hint of acidity to add depth and contrast. By thoughtfully layering these elements, I ensure that every bite offers something new while maintaining harmony across the menu.

Balbi: The best way for us is to look at the menu as a whole. This ensures that our menu flows nicely, without compromising on flavour, texture, temperature, and ingredients. Sequencing also plays a huge part in making the guest feel engaged. Think of it as a concert; if the music is monotonous, it becomes boring; if the violin solo overruns, it becomes bothersome. The tasting menu is exactly the same. Every dish has to have its own place and time to be able to provide a pleasant experience to our guests.

Royer: While many timeless favourites are still present on our menu, the rotating seasons bring cadence, challenging us to bring something new to the table each time. The varying regional ingredients, flavours, and culinary techniques always result in something that will excite our guests as well as our team. We train our team to share the stories behind each dish and offer guidance to experienced diners and new guests. Even our wine pairings reflect this approach, offering two options to encourage exploration for both the budding and experienced.

Pam: I believe that food should be comforting and surprising. Creating dishes that tell a story is key, so I focus on familiar flavours rooted in Thai-Chinese cuisine while refining presentations. For instance, the menu includes ingredients like jasmine rice or tamarind but reimagined in unexpected ways. This allows experienced gourmands to appreciate the subtleties and techniques, while budding diners can connect with the flavours they recognise, making the overall dining experience accessible and engaging.

Balbi: It is all about flavour. We work very hard to make sure food is delicious at Ando. It may sound simple but it doesn’t come easy. While we keep our signatures on our menu, it helps to inject a fresh twist with seasonal ingredients in order to surprise our returning guests.

Royer: Impeccable, well-sourced and seasonal; for ingredients, wherever it is coming from.

Pam: Respect for tradition. No matter how modern or innovative a dish may be, it has to have a foundation in something meaningful, and rooted in heritage. I believe that food is a powerful connection to our past, and I’m passionate about honouring that connection. At Potong, every dish carries a piece of my Thai-Chinese heritage, whether it be ingredients, techniques, or the story it tells. Innovation is essential, but tradition is what gives each creation its soul.

Balbi: We never sacrifice or risk compromising quality—a core pillar of Ando’s philosophy.

All answers have been edited for brevity.

The Tatler Best of Asia Takeover Series sees celebrated French chef Julien Royer of Odette from Singapore in action, bringing his elegant French cuisine with vibrant Asian influence to Maison Dunand on November 26 (dinner); chef Agustin Balbi of Andō, presenting a masterful fusion of Japanese and Spanish cuisine in an exclusive multi-course tasting menu on November 23 (lunch); and chef Pam of Potong, stars alongside acclaimed chef Chumpon Jangprai of R.Haan and chef Ton of Le Du, to create an epic Best in Class Gala Dinner menu on November 25.

This story is part of the Tatler Best series, showcasing the finest in Asia across hotels, restaurants and bars. Tatler Best is in partnership with Tumi, Dusit Thani Bangkok, Mastercard, The Macallan and Tourism Authority of Thailand. For more information visit the website media.tatlerasia.com/list/best

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