Seated at the counter, just a few paces away from the brother and sister duo, we could feel the energy vibrating within the room as they toiled away and worked their magic. The menu comprises a mixture of dishes and no, not everything is pizza. From an amuse-bouche with otoro and chutoro bacon and pistachios, to Crosta’s version of modified hassun service featuring a series of caviar-focused courses each presented individually, chef Yuichi proved that his mastery in the kitchen extends far beyond pizza. The pop-up’s menu features some dishes that are fully collaborative, but the majority was conceptualised by Yuichi, incorporating Naomi’s technical skills.

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The menu kicked off with a tart of Hokkaido scallops in kombu, pickled asparagus, with green pea cream and malagos goat cheese. Following that, a crisp phyllo pastry tube filled with Australian Wagyu tartare, shallots in red wine vinaigrette, nori powder, and topped with a quail egg. Next, we were invited to craft our own bites spreading mascarpone smoked with sakura chips, and garnished with ginger oil, orange and home-made karasumi, over lengua de gato biscuits with a piece of what chef Yuichi playfully calls “tunagi”. Lastly, the starters came to an end with a mud crab egg custard with house-made tosazu (ponzu with katsuobushi and kombu) dalandan jelly. 

As the pizza courses commenced, we started with pizza bianca presented in two versions: one with olive oil and salt, and another with parmesan and garlic which chef Yuichi identifies as his personal favourite. These were served with Hokkaido botan-shrimp, tossed with house-made nduja, topped with wild big fin squid and a selection of house-cured cold cuts. The team impressively aged their own spalla, pancetta, guanciale, Kyoto duck prosciutto, Wagyu flank bresaola, and swordfish belly bacon, all of which were delicate, finessed, and inviting. 

Next, a texture-filled bite met our plates. A crisp slice of focaccia topped with a thick piece of Hokkaido wild sardine, atop a layer of stracciatella, seasoned with a welcomed burst of kaffir lime. 

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Yuichi and Naomi then began working on the dough for the main event: a series of pizzas. As each pie exited the oven, the chefs proudly showcased them before all diners before we were served our slices. It began with The King marinara with pomodori pelati, tomato gel, tomato salt of dehydrated gazpacho and oregano; moved onto the rock lobster pizza with orange bearnaise, zucchini and pine nuts; and then received the Kyo-Gamo pizza with Kyoto duck prosciutto Pampanga mulberries, foie gras mousse and Barbera d'Alba reduction. 

Finishing the savoury courses was a four-day aged kinki basted with oil and its scales on to achieve a crunchy exterior, and yet maintain the fish’s moist, plump interior. This was served with fumet with parsley, onion jam, leeks and yuzu miso. 

For a sweet ending, the chefs prepared a liquid nitrogen-made truffle-soy gelato with mochi and amazke. 

The experience came with a smart drinks pairing which ranged from wines to champagnes and sakes curated by Thomas Woudwyk of Crosta Pizzeria, and Alexander Mackh of Grassl Glass (who also provided the glassware for the pop-up). Each pairing brought out new characteristics to its matched bite, revealing or highlighting pleasantly surprising attributes.

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What makes an omakase experience, and this one in particular stand out? The interaction with your chef, and the hands-on, intimate experience guests are indulged with as a meal is tailored to their seating. With a focus on the blending of Italian and Japanese flavours, and techniques, plus Filipino ingredients too, this pop-up was bursting with a clear passion for food, matched with the expertise to back it up, plus a steadfast appreciation for quality produce.

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