Filipino Food Deconstructed

NEW encounters with familiar dishes such as tapsilog salad, tinapa roll, boneless crispy pata, and crispy kare-kare display significant level-up in Filipino food. Well regarded by the incorporation of some imported and quality food fundamentals with the accustomed flavours, transforming an old and typical viand into a new offering for the local palate. Such evident examples apply to the traditional tapsilog (marinated braised beef typically served with fried rice and egg) that comes in US Angus beef and is included in a salad option; tinapa (smoked preserved fish) arises in spring-roll type of plating and presentation; and crispy pata (deep-fried pork leg) goes boneless. These proofs only confirm that Filipino food can heighten its standing.

Asia Tatler Dining Philippines discovers the appetising introduction behind the quirky concepts and reconstructed names. The collaboration of the country's trademark staples, passionate restaurant owners, and distinctive interiors reveal that traditional Filipino food has indeed taken the modern route and succeeded.

BISTRO FILIPINO BY CHEF LAUDICO

From the dynamic power duo of the couple chefs Roland and Jackie Laudico, Bistro Filipino by the chef Laudico has nailed today's restaurant revolution with a remarkable status in the Filipino dining scene. Its six-year reputation, which has won both local and international acclaim, proves the gastronomic feast that awaits every Filipino food lover.

At the entrance, oversized narra chairs and antique-looking tables take you to a trip back to the olden times, depicting a cosy aura together with the earthy and wooden tones. Even if the interiors suggest a nostalgic vibe, the restaurant's wide food selection delivers something new. The idea of using extraordinary elements in the dishes, like Kitayama Wagyu beef in sinigang (tamarind-based soup) and duck in adobo (marinated and braised meat), brings different and richer tastes to your palate.

Bistro Filipino by Chef Laudico brings you to an ancestral house-type of setting

For appetiser, Tatler Dining recommends its Three Kinds of Mangoes served with organic greens, bagoong (shrimp paste) dressing, and white cheese in crusted cashew. Another winner is the Duck Adobo Confit with its savoury and fresh approach to a home-style viand, making it a gourmet option. Cap off your meal with the best-selling Frozen Braso de Mercedes that transports any sweet tooth to heaven.

Duck Adobo Confit 

Chef Laudico Bistro Filipino
G/F Net Square Building, 3rd Avenue
Fort Bonifacio Global City, Taguig
+632.856.0541

MESA FILIPINO MODERNE

Whatever the occasion, Mesa Filipino Moderne is a top dining destination. Situated along the posh strip of high-end restaurants in Greenbelt 5, this Filipino restaurant offers an inviting atmosphere for group gatherings and power lunches with its well-spaced lounge-type chairs and long tables in its outdoor dining area. Make sure to have a reservation before coming since it's jam-packed with both regulars and curious eaters even on weekdays.

The restaurant's facade in a corner space, allowing diners to easily find the spot 

The menu delights guests with an intelligent twist on the classic Filipino finds, highlighting the local flavours enhanced with famous Asian ways of cooking and presentation. Begin your gastronomic journey with Tinapa Roll, a six-piece spring roll-style tinapa (smoked preserved fish) that takes something from the Thais but retains its Pinoy identity with salted egg partnered with pinakurat (highly spiced native coconut vinegar). Crispchon or crispy lechon (suckling pig) is also a great choice to boost your appetite with its two-way serving, not unlike the Peking duck is presented. Eat like a king, right after then, with the Crab in salted egg sauce. It's a guaranteed treat to your taste buds' seafood cravings! Another stellar choice for fresh catch of the day is the boneless tilapia (leatherjacket fish) with four sauces. If there's still room for dessert, Mesa's barako coffee jelly will definitely mark your meal.

Sinful, delicious and generous serving of Crab in salted egg 

Mesa Filipino Moderne
G/F Greenbelt 5, Ayala Centre, Makati City
+632.728.0886

ROMULO CAFÉ

This restaurant is an exceptional showcase of family tradition and culinary passion. An heirloom to the family of the well-renowned late public servant Carlos P. Romulo, the restaurant stands on Jupiter Street, giving any passer-by an impression of a fine dining experience. Don't be intimidated by its classy and elegant interiors that boast contemporary black-and-white furnishings, because the reasonable prices prove that your visit justifies the dining experience.

Sleek interior design of one of Romulo Cafe's dining areas with the photo of Carlos P. Romulo as a centre attraction 

Owners Enzo and Sandie Squillantini (granddaughter of Carlos P. Romulo) have created a menu to target the family-oriented crowd. The selections reflect the Romulos' home staples that add to a diner's enthusiasm in discovering what's behind the history and luxury of every offering. Three signature dishes best exemplify the claim: Lola Virginia's Chicken Relleno, one whole roasted chicken stuffed with ground pork, raisins, chorizo, and peas that comes in slices; Boneless Crispy Pata with Binagoongan Sauce, deboned crispy pork leg served with eggplant and shrimp paste dressing; and Tito Greg's Kare-Kare, oxtail and tripe peanut-based beef stew with vegetables and homemade shrimp paste. Finish off your comforting and satisfying meal with Turon with Mantecado Ice Cream, an unusual take on wrapped bananas paired with a rich butter scoop of ice cream that nicely sends out a fruity and creamy combination.

Lola Virginia's Chicken Relleno 

Romulo Café
148 Jupiter Street
Barangay Bel-Air, Makati City
+632.822.0286

XO 46 BISTRO FILIPINO

XO for extraordinary; and 46 for 1946, the year when Americans liberated the Philippines on July 4. From the restaurant's name itself, historic expectations of Filipino food come to mind. XO 46 Bistro Filipino remains loyal to the old-fashioned staples from the country's regions, but has imbued a new approach to some of its chosen menu highlights. Perfect for quick meet-ups for lunch and private celebrations for dinner, its location at the heart of the central business district makes it very accessible and more enticing for everyone to come.

Native materials in modernised touches dominate the interiors of XO 46 Bistro Filipino  

Besides the native and wooden embellishments that spruce up the entire restaurant, the wait staff who address each diner as señor or señorita add to the gleaming feeling in every bite. A great dish to begin with is Empanada Bilbao à la Vigan, flaky stuffed bread with chorizo, white cheese, and salted eggs. For mains, choose the Kare-Kareng Crispy Tadyang and indulge in your old-time favourite like you have never done before. Compared to the usual kare-kare, the crispy beef ribs are fried and served dry that separately go with a bowl of the peanut-based sauce complemented by vegetables. Once they are eaten together, prepare for an epicurean feast of flavours! Never miss the Mango Nectar for dessert.

Kare-Kareng Crispy Tadyang 

XO 46 Bistro Filipino
G/F Le Grand Condominium
130 Valero St., Salcedo Village, Makati City
+632.553.6632 to 35

If several years ago Filipino food was limited to the buffet or turo-turo concept, these restaurants verify that the Philippines' local flavours have a competitive standing. With the brilliant juxtaposition of traditional cooking with modernised culinary models, Tatler Dining commends these four restaurants for a united, beautiful, and mutual partnership between the old and the new.

Photos courtesy of the respective restaurants