Cover Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa with Dom Pérignon's chef de cave Vincent Chaperon
Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa with Dom Pérignon's chef de cave Vincent Chaperon
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A taste of the French Champagne house’s latest rosé paired with a nature-inspired dinner in Kyoto and a vintage-to-be
Beneath the historic eaves of the ancient Shogunzuka Seiryuden Temple in Kyoto, Dom Pérignon hosted the 2023 edition of its Révélations experience—the brand’s first inside a temple—to reveal two new wines to creatives, chefs, distinguished gourmands and wine enthusiasts from around the world: Improvisation 2022, the house’s vintage-to-be, and the eagerly anticipated Dom Pérignon Rosé Vintage 2009.
First constructed in 1913, the Seiryuden temple was dismantled, transported and reassembled in 1998 atop Mount Higashiyama, where Emperor Kammu proclaimed the founding of Kyoto in 794. This legendary setting offered an extraordinary panorama for the unveiling which, directed by Dom Pérignon chef de cave Vincent Chaperon, played out in three parts.
The show opened with From Matter to Light, an exhibition inside the temple that featured the works of artists, photographers, musicians and writers. Each gave their unique interpretation of Improvisation 2022 in the form of intricate collages, vinyl recordings, exquisite glass grape ornaments and evocative black-and-white photos from the harvest season.
Above A preview and tasting of Improvisation 2022 on the observation deck of hogunzuka Seiryuden Temple
A preview and tasting of Improvisation 2022 on the observation deck of hogunzuka Seiryuden Temple
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As the Kyoto sky blushed pink, Act Two commenced: an exclusive preview and tasting of Improvisation 2022, a still wine blend made from last year’s harvest that is yet to be aged, on the outdoor observation deck. Here, attendees sipped the potential future release of a Dom Pérignon vintage in the first stages of its life while—with headphones provided—immersed in music and the sunset before them.
Within the sacred grounds, celebrated chef and member of the Dom Pérignon Society Yoshihiro Narisawa crafted the event finale: a seven-course culinary spectacle that was paired exclusively with and drew inspiration from Dom Pérignon Rosé 2009. Narisawa, whose eponymous restaurant in Tokyo has garnered two Michelin stars and a green star—a Michelin award which highlights sustainable practices—spotlighted his innovative satoyama cuisine, which refers to his sentiments of living and working in harmony with nature.
For Narisawa, satoyama is when “humans adapt to nature instead of the other way around”. His menu, based on ingredients sourced from mountains, forests, rivers, lakes and oceans, reflects a philosophy in which food is not merely sustenance but a story of the land and sea. “I try to express these elements from nature,” he says.
Above The Forest dish
The Forest dish
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From a “Mountain” dish featuring thin slices of Honshu venison in miso, presented on a magnolia leaf with a scattering of nuts and berries, to a “River” dish with ayu, or Japanese sweetfish, encased in a crispy parcel and adorned with a crunchy, and entirely edible, fish bone accoutrement, Narisawa’s naturedriven menu tapped into Japan’s vast landscape, along with the many notes—sweet, fruity, earthy, sharp, floral and spicy—of the rosé 2009.
Of his “Forest” dish, which paired sweet soy-coated pigeon with sansho, or mountain pepper, which only blooms for about one week each spring, Narisawa explains, “The sansho is not a flower; it is still a bud. That is important to note, because the spiciness is not powerful. The bud is accumulating energy because it will flower soon, and this is why it pairs so well with the rosé.” Chaperon adds, “There is a potential for spiciness and a potential for energy in the 2009 [rosé], which is exactly like the energy embedded in the bud—it is energy [yet] to come.”
On what to expect from this vintage, Chaperon says, “Rosé 2009 is the most glorious embodiment of the fruits of Champagne,” going on to explain that the intensely sunny, dry and warm weather that year led to significantly riper than usual grapes. Its blend of pinot noir and chardonnay reflects this extreme climate with generous fruit, gently tempered by almost 12 years in the cellar. The rosé offers fleeting florals followed by raspberry, cherry and fig, while a sweet, creamy texture nestles confidently with an understated intensity. Thereafter, a mineral elegance comes through with a hint of earthiness, proposing a long life ahead.
Above Dom Pérignon Rosé 2009
Dom Pérignon Rosé 2009
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Dom Pérignon recommends pairing the rosé with savoury root vegetables such as turnip greens and artichokes, as well as fish, to accentuate its aromatic nuances. Ingredients including pork belly, chilli pepper and sea urchin also pair well and serve to unveil an acidity hidden behind the fruitiness.
As for the future of Dom Pérignon’s vintages, the whims of climate change have not gone unnoticed. In 2022, the unpredictable rainfall patterns—sometimes excessive and at other times alarmingly scarce—affected their vineyards and plot maturation, causing greater diversity in the growth and therefore the aroma and flavour of the grapes. Yet, amid these challenges, Improvisation 2022 is a project that shines brightly for Chaperon, who says, “We were struggling to understand [this diversity] but, in a way, it was also very interesting in terms of creating, because we had so much variation that we could really create something new.”
A storyteller by day and a first-class food devourer by night, Fontaine is the Regional Dining Editor at Tatler Asia, overseeing dining content across all regions and shaping the brand’s editorial voice on food, chefs and culinary culture.
She is also Content Lead for Tatler Best and Co-jury Head for Tatler Best Hong Kong and Macau, guiding the awards’ editorial direction and evaluation process. With over a decade in the lifestyle and media industry spanning London and Hong Kong, she brings a cross-regional perspective to the table.
Follow her on Instagram at @fontimes.
