Dining Through the Times

^{Man Wah in the '80s (Photo courtesy of Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong)}

Our annual dining bible, Hong Kong Tatler’s Best Restaurants, is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. It’s been a fascinating three decades that have seen many fine restaurants come and go, though there are a number of venues that have stood the test of time.

It is particularly fitting that we celebrate our 30^th year along with two of Hong Kong’s most iconic hotels who also have milestone anniversaries this year – the 50-year-old Mandarin Oriental, and the 85-year-old Peninsula. Both venues have kept our legacy of reviewers well fed over the past three decades, as the presence of restaurants such as Man Wah, Mandarin Grill, Chesa, The Verandah and Gaddi’s in both the current and inaugural guide will testify. Other restaurants that have remained our favourites throughout the years include Shang Palace, Fook Lam Moon, Nadaman, Tsui Hang Village, and Yung Kee.

Back in 1984, the inaugural dining guide was edited by the late Geoffrey Thursby with the help of Liz Morcom MW and Chinese-food expert William Mark. Here are some choice quotes from the team on some of the restaurants featured:

Gaddi’s: “Service: Excellent. Attentive and courteous, without too much hovering around.”

Man Wah: “Atmosphere could be described as easy and romantic, unlike traditional Chinese restaurants. Subdued lighting, soft pink table coverings and curtains which blend perfectly well with the magenta carpet.”

Fook Lam Moon: “The restaurant calls itself a ‘specialist in first class Cantonese foods.’ The claim may be a little strong, but certainly it is a restaurant to watch.”

Yung Kee: “…no matter what Yung Kee serves, it is, and will be known as, king of the roast goose. If it ever lost that title it wouldn’t be the restaurant it now is.”

As the guide moves into its third decade, we can’t help but wonder what the gourmands of the future might make of our own choices in the 2014 guide. 

The Hong Kong Tatler Best Restaurants Guide 2014 will be available at all major bookstores on December 6, or you can order your copy here