Cover The “unlimited” menu at Akuna restaurant is elevated with its distinctive Grilled Porcupine dish (photo: courtesy of Akuna restaurant)
The “unlimited” menu at Akuna restaurant is elevated with its distinctive Grilled Porcupine dish (photo: courtesy of Akuna restaurant)
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At Akuna restaurant, Chef Sam Aisbett once introduced a striking menu item featuring grilled porcupine, crafted using the brush-tailed porcupine sourced from Bien Hoa.
It’s a dish that reflects Chef Sam’s enduring passion and his pursuit of culinary creativity. The familiar brush-tailed porcupine is transformed, offering an alluring depth of flavour thanks to his deft technique and bold pairing of richly unexpected ingredients.
At Akuna, cuisine becomes a journey of discovery through rare ingredients and unanticipated delights. Tatler Vietnam uncovers the story behind this dish and shares Chef Sam Aisbett’s insights into a creation sparked by a serendipitous moment in his ever-evolving kitchen.
What is the key ingredient that makes this dish special? How do you prepare it to perfection?
The porcupine is undeniably the centrepiece. At Akuna, we work with Asian brush-tailed porcupine from a farm in Bien Hoa. After being deboned, the meat is gently slow-cooked at 58°C for 45 minutes. It’s then caramelised in butter and dressed with a lush sauce of green camellia vinegar, red wine, and aromatic herbs. To finish, we add a white radish cream, peas infused with Buddha’s hand extract, and smoked Hokkaido scallops. These bright red, sweet scallops are artfully skewered on porcupine spines—bringing contrast and harmony to the dish.
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Can you describe the texture of this dish? In what order should one enjoy Grilled Porcupine to get the best experience?
The meat has a gentle flavour, akin to young veal, with a similarly delicate texture when grilled. In contrast, the skin takes on the crispness of well-fried pork rind. It’s this interplay—the supple meat and the brittle outer layer—that creates such an intriguing mouthfeel. Unexpected, yet entirely balanced.
Above Grilled Porcupine presents a contrast of textures, delightfully balanced (photo: courtesy of Akuna restaurant)
Grilled Porcupine presents a contrast of textures, delightfully balanced (photo: courtesy of Akuna restaurant)
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If there is one drink to pair with the menu, what should it be? How will this drink complement the flavour of the dish?
Bogan in Bogandy, a red wine from Burgundy, France, pairs beautifully with the Grilled Porcupine. Its maker, Mark Haisma, shares a path not unlike mine. Though both Australian, we’ve each carved out second homes abroad. His fascination with the French countryside has inspired this singular wine.
A blend of Pinot Noir—the noble grape of Burgundy—and Gamay, often seen as its rustic cousin, Bogan in Bogandy opens with notes of strawberry and red cherry. Underneath, a compelling texture reveals hints of leather, earth, and smoke. This balance of freshness and acidity enhances the dish, drawing out its full spectrum of flavour.
Do you have any memorable stories about customers’ reactions when they try this dish on the à la carte menu? How do you feel when you witness such awe-inspiring moments?
The usual response is one of delighted surprise, as porcupine remains an unfamiliar ingredient to many, especially those visiting from overseas. What I find most rewarding is seeing even local diners—those already acquainted with porcupine—react with genuine amazement at the new dimension of flavour we introduce. I often hear, “Wow! I’ve never had it this way before.” And that’s exactly what we hope for—that sense of wonder, of discovery, that encourages guests to return time and again.
When creating, one always knows when a dish “clicks”! For Chef Sam, what is that moment?
At Akuna, we strive for the boundless—we’re not confined by regional traditions or any single culinary school. Because of that, I can’t say there’s a specific moment when things “click”. I simply cook what I love, guided by instinct and a genuine passion for flavour. That’s certainly how Grilled Porcupine came to life—more of a natural evolution than a definitive turning point.
Of course, every chef wants customers to see and feel what they saw when they put a dish on the menu. So with Grilled Porcupine, what feeling do you want to share with diners?
What I want is for diners to be completely immersed in the beauty and richness of local Vietnamese ingredients. At Akuna, that’s our commitment—to honour what the land offers and to craft a fine dining experience that feels deeply rooted, yet refreshingly refined.
