Cover From nose-to-tail to the plate: these chefs redefine cooking with fish and other seafood through sustainability, innovation and full-flavour creativity. (Photo: Mdjaff / Freepik)
From nose-to-tail to the plate: these chefs redefine cooking with fish and other seafood through sustainability, innovation and full-flavour creativity. (Photo: Mdjaff / Freepik)
1 / 1
Meet the chefs proving that cooking with fish goes far beyond fillets, embracing sustainability and nose-to-tail dining
In an era where sustainability defines the future of dining, chefs are rethinking the way we eat seafood. Across kitchens from Sydney to Singapore, La Rochelle to Los Angeles, a new generation is embracing the philosophy of using every part of the fish, from bones and roe to skin and liver. This approach, often referred to as nose-to-tail, is not just about reducing waste but about celebrating flavour, technique and respect for the ocean. For these chefs, cooking with fish is more than fillets on a plate; it’s a way to tell a story about sustainability, creativity and the evolving role of seafood in global gastronomy.
Read more: Fine dining, chaotic kitchens and the cooking llfe: 7 food memoirs by celebrity chefs
1. Josh Niland: the pioneer of fish butchery
Australian chef Josh Niland has revolutionised seafood cuisine with his innovative approach to using every part of the fish. At his Sydney restaurant, Saint Peter, Niland employs techniques traditionally associated with meat, such as dry-ageing and curing, to elevate fish to a gourmet level. His philosophy is simple: “Anything you can do to an animal, you can do to a fish”. This ethos has led to creations like fish-eye ice cream, showcasing his commitment to utilising every part of the fish. In addition to Saint Peter, Niland has expanded his influence through Fish Butchery, a retail space that specialises in under-utilised fish species and fish charcuterie.
2. Michel Roux: championing the whole fish
Renowned chef Michel Roux has become a vocal advocate for using the entire fish through his role as an ambassador for the Norwegian Seafood Council. Instead of highlighting a single restaurant, Roux has focused on public campaigns to reduce waste and promote sustainability, encouraging chefs and diners alike to explore underutilised cuts such as cod stomachs, cheeks and bones. His philosophy is rooted in respect: if a fish’s life is taken, then every edible part should be used. By lending his voice to these initiatives, Roux is helping shift perceptions around cooking with fish on a global stage.
3. Sammy Monsour: merging Southern flavours with sustainable practices
Chef Sammy Monsour blends his Southern heritage with a passion for sustainable seafood at his Los Angeles restaurant, Joyce Soul & Sea. The menu centres around soulful Southern fare with an emphasis on sustainable seafood, offering an extensive raw bar programme and selection of fine American caviars. Beyond the kitchen, Monsour is an active advocate for ocean conservation and sustainable food systems, collaborating with organisations like the Environmental Defense Fund and Chefs Manifesto. His commitment to sustainability extends to his restaurant's operations, as Joyce Soul & Sea became the first in California to earn Green Business Innovator status, setting a new standard for sustainable hospitality.
4. Bun Lai: innovating with invasive species
At Miya’s in New Haven, Connecticut, Chef Bun Lai addresses environmental concerns by incorporating invasive species into his menu. By using ingredients like Asian shore crabs and European green crabs, Lai not only reduces ecological impact but also introduces diners to unique flavours, demonstrating that sustainability can be both ethical and inventive. Lai’s approach aligns with the broader movement of using invasive species to mitigate environmental damage caused by these non-native organisms.
5. Christopher Coutanceau: the fisherman-chef
French chef Christopher Coutanceau, known as a fisherman-chef, operates his restaurant, Restaurant Christopher Coutanceau, in La Rochelle with a focus on sustainable fishing practices. Fishing is a lifelong family passion, and Coutanceau takes it further by campaigning for sustainable methods and against waste when cooking with fish. His sincere and passionate commitment to the environment has earned him recognition in the culinary world. In addition to his restaurant, Coutanceau offers sea excursions for offshore fishing, providing guests with a unique gastronomic itinerary that highlights sustainable fishing along the Charente-Maritime coastline.
These chefs exemplify a commitment to sustainable sourcing and innovative cooking with fish. Their practices not only reduce waste but also inspire a broader appreciation for the complexities and flavours that every part of the fish can offer. In embracing the nose-to-tail philosophy, they are leading the charge toward a more sustainable and ethical culinary future.
NOW READ
Jason Barratt's guide to Brisbane: must-visit restaurants, hotels and shops
The 5 oldest New York City delis you can still visit today
The new wave of Paris hotels and restaurants: stylist Declan Chan's curated edit
Topics
Chonx Tibajia is a senior editor at Tatler Asia’s T-Labs team, where she writes widely on lifestyle subjects including beauty, style, entertainment and travel. She has a long career in journalism, including roles as a columnist at The Philippine Star, and is the founder of the creative platform Pineappleversed. Beyond Tatler, her bylines appear in regional lifestyle and business publications, showcasing a broad portfolio that spans beauty trends, travel guides and culture pieces.
