How Comté is Made

A cheese’s flavour not only comes from the milk used to produce it, but also from the maturation process. That’s why an “affineur” is so important for a cheese to reach its full potential. Affineurs take care of the cheese wheels in the ripening cellars. Comté cheese from France, for example, illustrates the cheese maturation process. Like many other cheeses, Comté was created hundreds of years ago, during the Middle Ages, in the Jura Mountains in the east of France. At that time, the majority of people lived on the land and each farmer bred a few cows for their milk.

During the summer months, cows grazed in the high pastures, eating fresh grass and flowers. But in winter, the mountains were covered with snow and the cows were herded back to the valley to spend the cold months in the cowshed. Cows produce very little milk in the winter and it is not as rich as summer milk. Farmers made large pieces of cheese to last the long, cold months. The weight of a wheel ranges between 30-45 kg and each one requires over 500 liters of milk. Since a cow produces 20 to 30 liters of milk per day, farmers had to gather and share their milk to make the cheese. They called the place where they were making Comté “fruitiere” from the word “fruit”, as a reference to sharing the fruit of their labour. It is a tradition that continues today. Farmers work cooperatively to bring their milk to the “fruitiere” where the wheels are made. The word “fruitiere” is only used for places where Comté is made. 

Once the wheels are stored in ripening cellars (pictured above), the affineur goes to work. Comté is one of the most popular French cheeses with over 40,000 tons produced each year requiring thousands of wheels. The cellars resemble long tunnels where thousands of wheels are matured. The temperature in the cellar cannot exceed 19°C and the humidity must remain at 92%. The wheels are often washed and brushed with salt water to help the cheese develop its rind. It also enables the Comté to remain wet, enhancing the cheese with its characteristic greasy texture. 

Each day, the affineur walks the long tunnels with a mallet and cheese taster. With the mallet, he strikes the wheel and depending on the sound, he knows if the texture is homogeneous. With the cheese taster, he takes a carrot-shaped piece of cheese, investigates its colour, smells it and sometimes eats it. He can then decide when the cheese is at its best. He returns the “carrot” into the cheese to avoid blue mould from developing, which occurs if the inside of the cheese is in direct contact with oxygen. 

The wheel is matured for a minimum of 90 days and up to 48 months. From the beginning of the cheese’s life, the affineur decides how long the wheel can be kept in the cellar depending on their quality. Only the premium quality wheels can be kept for a maximum of four years. This also explains why a Comté 36 months is more expensive, because it requires a longer time and is very rare. But it does not mean it is better; ultimately it depends on personal taste.

When the Comté is still young, its flavours are mainly buttery. With time, the dried fruit notes will develop and the texture will change. In the first months, the texture is smooth and regular. After 18 months, some crystals begin to appear. They are not salt crystals but protein crystals due to the fermentation process. The more the cheese is aged, the more crystals are produced. A Comte 36 months is really crunchy. I encourage you to have a cheese board with different Comté from different stages of maturation, enjoy the various flavours and textures and find your favourite. 

 (photo courtesy of Jean D'Alo)