Cover Chef Jared Ng of Catfish
Chef Jared Ng of Catfish
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From the tantalising array of small plates to the intriguing social rituals of drinking, explore the essence of izakaya at Catfish
The rain pounds down incessantly on the pavement outside as imbibers are lulled into a hypnotic reverie with a couple of scene-stealing drinks within the warm cocoon of a dimly-lit restaurant. The interiors are shadowy and red, revelling in darkness. The scarlet lanterns and wall mural with oriental motifs evokes an opium den from the 1920s—though a pulsating, groovy hip-pop remix in the background is a constant reminder that we are in the present. At this cosy joint, the grilled Japanese mackerel donabe rice is the drug of choice. The pot of well-seasoned rice arrives at the table steaming hot, with chunks of mackerel to provide incredible texture and flavour. The taste is savoury, transportative and trance-inducing.
We could have been dining in one of those atmospheric narrow alleys in Tokyo—except that we weren’t. We were seated in an intimate hole in Gemmill Lane on a drizzly weekday evening. And instead of Ginza hostesses dolled up in ornate kimonos and garish makeup, we were served by an affable wait staff decked out in a casual shirt with brightly coloured prints. Walking into the newly revamped Catfish feels like chancing upon a secret, albeit one with a cult following. And judging from the buzzy crowd on a Thursday evening, Catfish remains a voguish neighbourhood stalwart, with its continuous devotion to impeccable cuisine and superb quality ingredients. While the concept has since evolved to become an izakaya, seafood is still the name of the game at Catfish, as it remains true to its DNA. There are plenty of libations, but the new menu has broadened to include everything from creamy pastas to hearty rice bowls.
Read more: Chef Andrew Walsh Opens Catfish, an Asian Fusion Restaurant and Bar Grill in Singapore
Above The dimly lit Catfish that is now an izakaya
The dimly lit Catfish that is now an izakaya
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The izakaya is one of Japan’s quintessential experiences. It involves lingering over food, unwinding with a drink and enjoying garrulous conversations. During the Edo period, the izakaya were taverns that served unctuous, salt-laden snacks to induce customers to drink more. In its purest form, an izakaya is still precisely that, but chef-owner Andrew Walsh and head chef Jared Ng have put their own trendy spin on the genre at their latest iteration of Catfish. The restaurant adheres to the original unpretentious spirit of an izakaya with a let-loose atmosphere and affordable prices, while the team worked extensively on curating a great cocktail programme, to include an element of mischief and fun inside. This encompasses a cheeky drinking game called Sake Bomb Bingo, and also a playful beverage menu, including a page dishing out tips for navigating awkward conversations during that Bumble date.
“We have forgotten how to have fun because of Covid-19! The world pre-Covid was more fun than now. We are not trying to be an omakase with a hefty SG$500 menu, but I want to have a cool and fun izakaya for my guests. That’s what this area needs”, says Walsh. When asked what the impetus for the change was, Walsh tells us he wanted to diversify the food. “I am a person who is not afraid of change. I look at trends and I like to do research. I wanted to look at diversifying the food at Catfish because not everyone eats fish. Some people only eat pasta and rice. Now the philosophy of the menu is so concept driven, that there's something for everyone. We are still seafood heavy, but the menu is bigger and the playlist is more fun,” he adds.
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Cold somen, truffle dressing, Hokkaido scallop and uni
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Catfish could easily coast on its extremely sexy ambience and list of sophisticated cocktails. Popular drinks include the Suntory Ginger Highball—whisky with lemon and ginger ale, the Pink Highball made with honjozo genshu and pink grapefruit and the Orange Mizuwari comprising Japanese blended whisky and cinnamon water. Its unassuming vibe and decent roster of sharing plates have made this place a real crowd-pleaser.
The menu is heavy on Japanese comfort food, with a few nods to Ng’s time spent in Japan. Dishes are noticeably refined, with highlights including the kanpachi sashimi, mizuna with yuzu truffle dressing and the assorted tartare taco with tuna, salmon and scallop. The zesty tanginess of the yuzu gave the sashimi a citrusy zing, enhancing the delicate and mild flavours of the fish, while the tacos were crisp and easy to adore. Then Ng had the ingenious idea to top his grilled Hokkaido scallop with gochujang butter and cured egg yolk. The sauce had a wonderfully creamy texture, and the blend of strong, competing flavours somehow collaborated.
Subsequently, the other dishes were good enough to upstage. A dynamite combination of caviar, Hokkaido uni, scallop and truffle dressing went well with a dish of cold somen. The briny sweetness of the uni knitted beautifully together with the fragrant truffle and caviar. But ultimately, it was the grilled Japanese mackerel donabe rice that threatened to steal the show with its sweet, smoky profile. The fish was scrumptious, but nothing rivalled our favourite part of the dish: that nice crispy browned rice at the bottom.
As we scraped at the remaining bits of crust sticking to the pot, Ng tells us that the new menu for Catfish was originally supposed to be Spanish. “Chef Andrew asked for paella but I gave him a donabe to taste…and then we concluded that we were going to be Asian inspired,” he laughs. We couldn’t concur more. When asked if he could cook Spanish as competently as Japanese, Ng lowers his voice, and with a conspiratorial wink he chuckles, “I can’t!"
