Chefs Carles Gaig (right) and Marti Carlos Martinez (left), who helms Restaurant Gaig in Singapore
Cover Chefs Carles Gaig (right) and Marti Carlos Martinez (left), who helms Restaurant Gaig in Singapore

The masterchef may have inherited lemons, but he’s turned his inheritance into the most delicious lemonade

Carles Gaig doesn’t look his age. Despite spending almost his entire working life in the pressurised cauldron of a commercial kitchen—from which few emerge without scars—he appears to be unscathed. The twinkle in his eye when talking about life, love and food is as jaunty as his gait, and even in his eighth decade of life he still exudes a passion for his craft.

Had the now 75-year-old not evolved to become a global ambassador for Catalan cuisine and one of Spain’s great chefs, he says he “would have been a mechanic.” He enjoyed stripping down car engines and attempting to put the bits and pieces back together. In his own words, he “sometimes got it right.” The cooking analogy is irresistible.

At a crucial moment in his life, however, the automotive world’s loss turned into the food world’s gain, as he donned the chef’s whites to continue a family tradition that was already more than a century in the making.

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The Gaigs started cooking for others back in the 1850s. His mother (part of the Gaig’s third generation) cheered people up with comfort food and sustenance during and after the Spanish Civil War. When she lost her vision, Carles took over at the family restaurant just outside Barcelona.

He didn’t ask for it. He may not even have wanted the role. But he was to the manner/manor born, and as with his mother, compulsion was the key.

“It started as being something that she felt she had to do,” says Carles as we sit across a table at Gaig in Singapore—the family’s first overseas venture. It’s a restaurant that’s won plaudits for its modern, often very creative take on traditional Catalan cuisine (very much in Carles’ own culinary image) with a tincture of Asiana thrown into the melting pot for very good measure.

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“She wasn’t inspired to cook, necessarily,” he continues. “But she managed to turn it (the restaurant) into something magical nevertheless.” The secret ingredients—complementing the fresh, seasonal foodstuffs that characterise Catalan cuisine—were heart, soul and a generous dollop of love. She presented redoubtable rustic dishes that soothed spirits and filled stomachs.

When I ask him what characterises a good cook he states, that, “a great chef is never satisfied…” and it’s clear that almost instantly after grabbing the restaurant’s reins, he was not. Trotting out the same dishes every day was not his métier, and in the mid-1980s he had an epiphany. While travelling and dining at Michelin-starred restaurants in France with the likes of the then-fledgling superchefs, Ferran Adrià and Santi Santamaria, Carles experienced a whole new world of sophistication, execution, and presentation of food.

It changed his life, as it did the cuisine at Gaig, as he channelled his inner mechanic; stripping dishes down to their elements before putting them back together with a few notable additions.

By 1993, his restaurant had acquired a Michelin star and was highly praised for putting a modern twist on traditional Catalan cuisine—something that one of Carles’ proteges, chef Martí Martínez, is turning into reality in Singapore.

“The magic of every restaurant depends on its knowing where it comes from,” says Carles. “It has to have a personality, and individualism that makes it stand out. Regional and national differences are important. Even when you’re either tinkering with or modernising a cuisine.”

He concludes: “It’s important to preserve heritage.”

A shining example of the Gaig credo is a cannelloni dish based on a recipe that dates back to 1869. With a filling of beef and pork and a luxurious truffle cream sauce canopy, it’s delectably rich and packed with flavour. It will have been through a number of iterations over the last 154 years, but in many ways, it sums up the Gaig ethos, to wit: make sure the fundamentals of a great dish are in place but feel free to tweak for the culinary zeitgeist.

When Carles took over the family business more than 40 years ago, there were chickens and rabbits wandering around outside the restaurant—waiting, presumably, to get their names on the daily specials. He’s come a long way since then, but he remains as rooted and as grounded as he was when, as a six-year-old, he took some eggs (from the chickens it’s hoped) and cooked his own breakfast before going to school.

That was part of his history, and he maintains that “heritage, like society, evolves.” It’s clear that Carles Gaig, like an assiduous mechanic, has been happy to disassemble the constituent parts of tradition, before putting them back together, adding new things to taste, and getting them to delight palates.

Carles Gaig has always respected culinary lore but has also never shied away from the experimental and avant-garde. The right combination, in the right proportions and with the right ingredients create a mechanism that is proven, highly approved of, and, like Carles Gaig himself, will stand the tests of time.

Restaurant Gaig
Spanish   |   $ $ $   |  

16 Stanley Street, S(068735)

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