Cover Kiyoshi Kimura, Japan’s self-proclaimed ‘Tuna King’, claims the record-breaking bluefin tuna at Tokyo’s Toyosu Market (Photo: Tomohiro Ohsumi/Getty Images)
Kiyoshi Kimura, Japan’s self-proclaimed ‘Tuna King’, claims the record-breaking bluefin tuna at Tokyo’s Toyosu Market (Photo: Tomohiro Ohsumi/Getty Images)
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In the pre-dawn hours of Tokyo’s Toyosu Market, a single bluefin tuna shattered records. Here’s why paying extreme prices actually makes perfect sense and brings good luck
On January 5, 2026, before most of Tokyo had awakened, something extraordinary happened on the auction floor of Toyosu Market. A single Pacific bluefin tuna sold for ¥510.3 million—approximately US$3.2 million—shattering the previous record of around US$3.1 million set in 2019.
This wasn’t just another fish sale. It was a five-minute bidding war that demonstrated the peculiar intersection of ancient ritual, corporate warfare and marketing genius. The winning bidder was Kiyoshi Kimura, Japan’s self-proclaimed “Tuna King”, who immediately announced the fish would be served at his Sushi Zanmai restaurants at standard prices.
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Here’s everything you need to know about the record-breaking bluefin tuna, its buyer and what its ultra-premium price really means.
The five-minute battle that cost US$3.2 million
The hatsuzeri, or New Year’s first auction, began precisely at 5:10am with the ceremonial ringing of handbells. Within minutes, the bidding for the prized 243-kilogram bluefin from Oma had escalated into a fierce contest between Kiyoshi Kimura and the wholesaler Yamayuki, who typically buys for the renowned Onodera Group restaurants.
The price skyrocketed past ¥100 million, then ¥300 million, climbing with breathtaking speed as brokers exchanged signals in the climate-controlled facility, before Kimura claimed the bluefin tuna for ¥510.3 million, a new record price.
The 243-kilogram giant: inside the biological masterpiece
Above Pacific bluefin tuna is known for its melt-in-the-mouth texture and deep umami (Photo: Kate Estes/Unsplash)
Pacific bluefin tuna is known for its melt-in-the-mouth texture and deep umami (Photo: Kate Estes/Unsplash)
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Caught by a 60-year-old fisherman in the Tsugaru Strait, the 243-kilogram bluefin tuna represented years of survival in one of the ocean’s harshest environments. Bluefin tuna is prized for its rich fat, particularly in cuts like otoro (belly), which offer a melt-in-the-mouth texture and deep umami flavour. Specimens from Oma develop superior marbling through slow growth, enhancing their flavour for high-end sushi. At the auction, buyers examined the severed tail of the record-breaking fish, noting its deep red hue, a sign of peak freshness and perfect oxygenation.
The ‘Tuna King’ returns: meet the buyer, Kiyoshi Kimura
Kiyoshi Kimura, president of Kiyomura Corporation, has built his reputation on winning—and he wasn’t about to relinquish his crown after competitors dominated recent auctions. Yet even the seasoned “Tuna King” was caught off guard by the intensity of the bidding, noting that the price shot up faster than he expected. His victory wasn’t just about the fish—it was a reassertion of dominance and a marketing masterstroke for his Sushi Zanmai restaurant chain.
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Sushi Zanmai: the popular restaurant chain democratising premium sushi
Kimura’s Sushi Zanmai chain represents the democratisation of premium sushi in Japan. Unlike exclusive Ginza establishments where a meal can cost hundreds of dollars, Sushi Zanmai positions itself as the people’s sushi palace—accessible, affordable and omnipresent across Tokyo and beyond. The chain’s philosophy centres on bringing high-quality tuna to everyday diners rather than reserving it for a few. By winning the record auction, Kimura sends a powerful message: his mid-market restaurants serve the same world-class fish as high-end competitors, creating extraordinary value for ordinary customers.
The ‘good luck’ business model: selling the hope of New Year’s big catch
Above Diners believe the hatsuzeri tuna brings prosperity and fortune for the year (Photo: Michael Wave/Unsplash)
Diners believe the hatsuzeri tuna brings prosperity and fortune for the year (Photo: Michael Wave/Unsplash)
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The inflated auction price is strategic participation in Japan’s goshugi tradition, where the first transaction of the year carries sacred weight. Kimura frames his purchase as buying good fortune. But the genius lies in transferring that superstition to his customers, as diners believe that consuming the New Year’s number one tuna will bring them prosperity. Kimura isn’t just selling fish—he’s selling hope.
After more than a decade in lifestyle media, Clifford has mastered the art of writing seriously about things that are fun—and writing fun things about people who take themselves very seriously. At Tatler Asia, he helped steer its flagship lists, Tatler’s Most Influential and Asia’s Most Stylish. And today, he leads T-Labs, Tatler Asia’s content innovation hub, where he continues the noble pursuit of lifestyle storytelling, spinning stories on wealth, entertainment, necessary style, Hallyu, Hollywood, beauty and more for audiences across Asia.
