Cover Mastercher Jereme Leung (Photo: Yi by Jereme Leung)

The Singapore chef-owner of Yi by Jereme Leung at Raffles Singapore has been based in Shanghai for more than 20 years, and has witnessed how its dining scene has grown. Here are his five favourite restaurants in the city

Shanghai has evolved in many ways, especially when it is viewed in the eyes of someone that has been residing there for more than 20 years. Most of the dining places which were popular at one point of time twenty years ago are no longer in operation today. Hence, this is a complex and easy question depending on who you ask.

These are five of my favourite restaurants in Shanghai currently for very different reasons. Some of them are because of nostalgia with their authentic flavours and longstanding history, some of them for their innovative flavours that they adapt with novel culinary techniques and adaptation to suit their locale. Altogether, they are a reflection of how I am inspired by new and old, and my passion of blending cultures and flavours, connecting tradition and contemporary elements. Most of all, I chose them because they serve delicious dishes from the heart that I am sure others will enjoy as well.

Don't miss: China coffee joint Luckin Coffee to open in Singapore this month—here’s what to look out for

1. Wan Huo Restaurant 万火酒场

This is a charcoal grill izakaya restaurant that has been around for more than a decade. It has a decent wine and sake list which complements its delicious food. The culinary team’s soya butter grill rice parcel is one of the best in the country, and their shrimps cooked in herbs, garlic and olive oil are excellent too. More unusual dishes that I enjoy here are the grilled innards such as chicken liver, hearts, and pig’s intestines, which are not common in Singapore, but very well done in this restaurant and with similar standards as Japan. 

I first got to know their Japanese chef when the restaurant was located in the middle of nowhere; a back lane restaurant of the same name in Beijing more than 15 years ago. Since then, I have continued to visit the restaurant when they moved to Shanghai about a decade ago. Their Japanese chef is very committed and dedicated to his craft. Ensuring the best quality, he only serves dishes that he has grilled himself. He and the restaurant come together as a package and when he retires, so will the place. 

Wan Huo Restaurant 万火酒场
Address: 3911 Hongmei Road,1/F, Soho, No. 4 Xiuxian Street (虹梅路soho3911休闲街4号楼1楼)

2. Lao Ji Shi Restaurant 老吉士酒家 (天平路店)

One of the very few Shanghainese restaurants that have survived the past two decades, This was the first Shanghainese restaurant that I dined in when I first arrived in Shanghai in autumn of 2002. Over the years, many places have come and gone; this restaurant has even opened a franchise, but I still return to the original outlet. Try the red braised pork, spring onions fried fish head, braised eel, local vegetable with Chinese wine, and crab roe with mung bean noodle.

老吉士酒家 (天平路店)
Address: 41 Tianping Road, Xuhui District, Shanghai, China, 200001 (near Huahuai Road) 天平路41号(近淮海中路)

3. Home Town 荷唐·韵 (中山公园店)

Tatler Asia
Above Prosperity amuse-bouche set (Photo: Jerry Tng)

This is an interesting Chinese restaurant that is operated by well-known veteran Singapore chef Jack Awyong. Some of their notable dishes include their version of Peking duck, drunken crab, coconut seafood chicken broth, steamed yellow croaker fish. I enjoy these dishes for their consistency in flavours—they are all very tasty. The talented chef-owner is a close friend of mine that I have known since forever and have a great deal of respect for him. In fact, I even hosted a dinner in Singapore more than 20 years ago when he first proposed to his wife and met his future in-laws.

Home Town 荷唐·韵 (中山公园店)
Address: 1139 Changning Road, Changning District, Shanghai, China, 200050 长宁路长宁来福士广场西区独栋古建(T3写字楼旁边,教堂正对面)

4. Pan Xiao Shao Yunnan Barbecue 潘小烧 ·云南烧烤

A Yunnan style grill restaurant that serves authentic Yunnan style grill and skewers. These dishes are not to be missed: a type of semi fermented tofu from Yunnan which holds a liquid centre, grilled eggplant, beef, chicken wings, and grilled chicken feet that are braised. All these are best paired with Yunnan’s own version of tamarind juice, an interesting beverage. 

For many years, while being one of the judges of China’s MasterChef TV program, I have had the good fortune of taking in-depth travels to many parts of China and exploring the best of local produces while meeting numerous interesting characters. Yunnan is one of my favourite places for inspirations due to its abundance of great food produce throughout the year. 

潘小烧 ·云南烧烤
Address: 838 Huang Pi South Road, B1-112 Huang Yu Hui, 200025 黄陂南路838弄环宇荟B1层112室 

5. Bambino

This is a new restaurant which just opened last year by Italian chef “Lucky”, who has been in town for a long time. An Italian national, he is an interesting character who works both as a chef and a tattoo artist. I would describe him as a character that came out of the Harry Potter novels with a larger than life personality. He takes pride in hand making everything from pastas to focaccia at his cosy establishment. My favourite dishes to order are their ricotta Rravoli, figs burrata and beef cheeks with balsamico. 

Bambino
Address: 600 Shaanxi North Road, Shanghai, China, 200041 (near the intersection of Xinzha Road) 陕西北路600号 (靠近新闸路路口)

Topics