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Though they had never met in person, chefs Cuong Nguyen of An’s Saigon and Paul Farag of Aalia in Sydney share a profound culinary philosophy: honouring heritage by returning to their roots
If An’s Saigon represents modern Vietnamese cuisine, then Aalia channels a contemporary take on Middle Eastern flavours. By chance, both establishments launched in 2022 and have gone on to achieve considerable acclaim. An’s has consistently achieved significant milestones and earned prestigious awards. Meanwhile, 2025 marks a double honour for Aalia, earning both the Chef of the Year title and the prestigious Two-Hat Restaurant accolade from Good Food Guide.
This international collaboration marks a defining moment for An’s Saigon. Launching such a venture, however, is never simple. As luck would have it, both chefs are stricken with an inclination towards challenge and discovery. Their partnership sparks a compelling question: what might the vibrant intensity of Middle Eastern cuisine share with the refined elegance of Vietnamese fare? Their conversation revels the answer.
4 hands - 2 cultures - 1 banquet table
Above Chef Cuong Nguyen (right, white shirt) with chef Paul Farag
Chef Cuong Nguyen (right, white shirt) with chef Paul Farag
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Hello, Chef Cuong Nguyen and Chef Paul Farag. When you first met in person, you discovered many things in common - especially your connection to your roots. Could you share more about that?
Chef Paul: I used to turn away from my Middle Eastern roots when I was younger. For a long time, I had little exposure to my own culture. I cooked in the traditions of Italy, France, and other European countries, never really questioning the origins of Middle Eastern food until someone challenged me to do so. It wasn’t an easy shift, but one I felt compelled to make. Discovering a 10th-century cookbook was pivotal; it opened my eyes to what I’d overlooked. That discovery laid the foundation for Aalia, where I introduce rarely explored flavours from the Middle East and North Africa.
Read more: From North to South: A journey of cultural discovery through desserts
Chef Cuong: In the early stages of my career, I trained and worked exclusively in European kitchens. But that made me deeply miss the flavours of home. I come from a multigenerational household, where meals were a connection point from the days when even soy sauce had to be homemade. That foundation gave me a strong emotional tie to Vietnamese dishes. It became both my inspiration and my challenge when co-founding An’s Saigon. I want to rediscover those flavours through a fresh lens, and to showcase the richness of original Vietnamese cuisine in all its diversity.
In your view, what makes the Vietnamese-Middle Eastern pairing a worthwhile culinary experience?
Chef Cuong: I believe it’s in the contrast. At first glance, the two cuisines may appear worlds apart. But for me, and for our guests at An’s, that's exactly where the excitement lies. It’s about uncovering new nuances, blending distinct traditions, and crafting something that feels unexpected yet whole.
Chef Paul: Vietnam and Egypt have both weathered periods of foreign rule, which left their mark on local cuisine. Yet rather than dilute the essence, those influences enriched it. These culinary traditions have never stood still; they’ve evolved continuously, absorbing and reimagining along the way. I like to think of it as the intersection of intersections.
Above These menus are structured to leave space for experimentation and creativity
Above These menus are structured to leave space for experimentation and creativity
These menus are structured to leave space for experimentation and creativity
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Above These menus are structured to leave space for experimentation and creativity
Above These menus are structured to leave space for experimentation and creativity
These menus are structured to leave space for experimentation and creativity
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In this “intersection”, let’s not talk about harmony: tell us what challenges, or even tensions, arise when working together?
Chef Paul: Every time I collaborate with a new chef, it presents a challenge not only for me, but for my entire team. At the same time, it opens the door to learning and exploration. Even at Aalia, I sometimes face criticism for creating dishes that don’t reflect traditional tastes. And it’s true—they often don’t. But I always retain one key element, whether it’s flavour or texture, to maintain a connection to home. I believe Cuong and I share a similar mindset in this regard.
Chef Cuong: I approach new dishes with a mindset of understanding. There is always a way to reconcile differences, however striking those differences might be. The same applies to collaborations. When I work with a new chef, I always encourage them to stay true to themselves. We don’t take it as an opportunity to showcase signature dishes from each restaurant; we just cook together. My menus are structured to leave space for experimentation and creativity. It’s how I continue to learn.
Read more: Strolling around Da Nang and Saigon, enjoying harmonious and diverse Asian and European dishes
Above Chef Paul: “I used to turn away from my Middle Eastern roots when I was younger.”
Chef Paul: “I used to turn away from my Middle Eastern roots when I was younger.”
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As the “conductor”, which dishes resonate most with you, Chef Cuong? Does their order carry any meaning?
Chef Cuong: I’m drawn to dishes that feature ingredients no one expects. From the very first bite, there’s stingray liver, a rare delicacy. Here, it’s transformed into a pâté, layered between crisp bread, paired with green plums and fresh Vietnamese coriander. It’s sharp, sweet, and invigorating all at once. Another highlight brings together two icons of Central Vietnamese cuisine: Quang Ngai sea urchin paste and sour shrimp paste. They reveal techniques of paste-making that exist only in Vietnam. The meal closes with a dessert made from mugwort, a flavour I doubt many have encountered. Its characteristic bitterness is softened by coconut honey, while the natural sweetness of carrot and the smoky richness of k’nia seeds create a surprising and worthwhile finale.
How will you weave North African and Middle Eastern notes into this “symphony”, Chef Paul?
Chef Paul: When Cuong first shared his concept, my mind filled with questions: “This dish is brilliant—but what can I bring to it?” Take the fattoush cracker, for example. It’s a staple appetiser at Aalia, with many variations involving toasted breadcrumbs. For this collaboration, I’m replacing the usual parsley with Vietnamese herbs to see where it leads. The menu will evolve with every step. One thing I know for sure is that no dish will appear exactly as it does at Aalia.
Above Chef Cuong: I’m drawn to dishes that feature ingredients no one expects.
Above Chef Cuong: I’m drawn to dishes that feature ingredients no one expects.
Chef Cuong: I’m drawn to dishes that feature ingredients no one expects.
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Innovation seems to be a shared ambition, though each of you expresses it differently. Chef Cuong seeks it through surprising ingredients, while Chef Paul is driven by unexpected discovery. What happens when these approaches meet?
Chef Paul: Cuong tends to explore Vietnamese cuisine through the lens of North and South. I look at Middle Eastern food without borders. Move east, and the flavours edge toward the Indian subcontinent—spiced, bold, rich with aromatic sauces. Head to Lebanon, and you’ll find lighter, verdant plates with coastal influences. In North Africa, there’s not only desert but also Mediterranean coastline, which gives rise to seafood-rich dishes. It’s an incredibly varied landscape. One dish I’ve created for this collaboration is squid, infused with roasted rice powder, which is a uniquely Vietnamese ingredient. It adds a smoky depth and a pleasingly toasted note that elevates the aroma.
Chef Cuong: For me, the essence of a dish lies in its harmony across the five elements: sour, spicy, salty, sweet, and umami. To achieve this, I limit each dish to one or two central ingredients. The challenge lies in creating balance; using the supporting elements to draw attention to the core. If I think of this menu as a layered composition with strong, dynamic notes, my role is to intersperse it with softer, more delicate tones, shaping a whole that feels both cohesive and compelling.
Above Chef Cuong: the challenge lies in creating balance; using the supporting elements to draw attention to the core.
Chef Cuong: the challenge lies in creating balance; using the supporting elements to draw attention to the core.
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We’re always ready to welcome international guests at An’s.
We’ve spoken plenty about the food, but what about the drinks? Any highlights on the list?
Chef Cuong: Each drink falls into one of two approaches: it either deepens the dish’s overall impression or offers a contrasting experience altogether.
Would you consider this menu a milestone in taking the An’s Saigon “brand” to an international level? If so, how has An’s team prepared for new guests?
Chef Cuong: At An’s, we’re always prepared to welcome international guests. Over time, the team has gained valuable experience through domestic collaborations. For this occasion, we’ve made thoughtful preparations to ensure everything runs smoothly.
Above Chef Paul: This collaboration will be a dialogue of two cultures side by side, discovering something new together
Chef Paul: This collaboration will be a dialogue of two cultures side by side, discovering something new together
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An’s has won hearts for its ability to tell cultural stories through food. At this joint banquet, what kind of story can diners expect from An’s and Aalia?
Chef Cuong: We’re ready to show the world what Vietnamese cuisine is capable of. No two ingredients are ever the same, and there will always be dishes that feel entirely new. For me, food is a way to trace our origins, to better understand a culture. It’s a language that needs no words, one that brings people closer together.
Chef Paul: This collaboration will be a dialogue of two cultures side by side, discovering something new together.
Above Food is a way to trace our origins, to better understand a culture
Above Food is a way to trace our origins, to better understand a culture
Food is a way to trace our origins, to better understand a culture
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Above A dialogue of two cultures side by side, discovering something new together
A dialogue of two cultures side by side, discovering something new together
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Above Food is a way to trace our origins, to better understand a culture
Above Food is a way to trace our origins, to better understand a culture
Food is a way to trace our origins, to better understand a culture
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What gives you confidence that the Aalia x An’s Saigon 4-hand collab will be unmissable?
Chef Paul: I may not yet grasp the full complexity of Vietnamese cuisine, but I know this will be a singular experience where Vietnamese traditions meet the spirit of the Middle East.
Chef Cuong: I stand behind every menu we present at An’s Saigon. Each one celebrates local ingredients in a new light. With this menu, we aim to take that story further, merging the soul of modern Vietnam with the rhythm of the contemporary Middle East.
The culinary event combining An's Saigon restaurant and Aalia restaurant will officially take place on July 4 & 5, 2025.
Refer and book a table in advance via: Facebook / Instagram / Hotline 0901 351 331.
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