Travel back in time to old Hong Kong for dim sum with a side of history
Dim sum—delicate dishes served in small portions for all to share—is one of the most traditional ways of dining in Guangdong. Perhaps little known to some, dim sum isn’t always about what’s in the bamboo steamers. In the past, dim sum was served to accompany the tea, and tea appreciation made up most of this leisurely dining experience. Today, there are still Chinese restaurants which serve dim sum the traditional way. If you’re all in for the old fashioned style of enjoying things, these historic venues may just be the vintage dim sum set up that will “touch your heart”.
See also: The Best Dim Sum In Hong Kong
1. Spring Moon
Step into the banquet hall of the most historic hotel in Hong Kong where gramophone music, ceiling fans, a large mahogany staircase, wooden furniture and waitresses in cheongsam transport you back to the Roaring Twenties of old Shanghai. Here at Spring Moon, opened in 1986 as one of the first few Cantonese restaurants among Hong Kong’s hotels, the dim sum experience begins with selecting tea. Spring Moon has two resident tea masters led by Elvis Wong, a national tea appraisal tea certificate holder. “Only around two Chinese restaurants out of 10 in Hong Kong still offers tea pairing for dim sum dining,” says Tama Tam Han Yi, one of the tea masters. Their highlights from more than 25 types of tea include oolong tea from Taiwan’s Alishan, Tieguanyin tea from Anxi in Fujian, and Longjing tea from West Lake in Hangzhou, all being China’s most famous teas with a long history. “I recommend pairing steamed dim sum with lighter tea such as white tea and longjing which have undergone less fermentation,” Tam says. “Darker teas such as green teas and pu’er go well with stir-fried dishes with thick sauces.”
Spring Moon’s dim sum department is overseen by Chinese cuisine executive chef Lam Yuk Ming, who has witnessed the changes of Hong Kong’s dim sum landscape for four decades. “From time to time, we add a few twists to our dim sum such as the Sicilian shrimp and minced pork xiaolongbao, since Sicilian shrimps have a sweeter taste; the steamed barbecued Hungarian mangalica pork bun; and the baked turnip puff with assorted fungus and roasted goose which looks like a swan.” Among the 30 dim sum dishes, we particularly recommend the golden mashed taro with diced abalone and chicken. This refined version of the traditional fried taro puff has a more complex texture: the crispy shell, mushy taro puree and chewy abalone dices. The seafood flavour also balances well with the taro’s starchy sweetness. But if you’re looking for a dish that looks as exquisite as it tastes, go for the “goldfish dumpling”, which is a steamed lobster and shrimp dumpling with bird’s nest in lobster bisque, served in the shape of a little goldfish resting on a Chinese soup spoon.
Spring Moon, 1/F, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui