2016's Top 20 Restaurants: Lung King Heen

After so many years in business, the Chinese restaurant housed within the Four Seasons Hong Kong still delivers as much as it aims to accomplish, all under the watchful eye and management of executive Chinese chef Chan Yan-tak. The seasoned chef is a true master, with a repertoire and depth of knowledge in Cantonese offerings that’s been honed from years of culinary experience. Technique is paramount when it comes to Chinese cuisine—and chef Chan’s skill is complemented by an innate sense of presentation. His innovative creations have, over the years, become signatures of the restaurant.

Barbecued pork with honey showcases a leaner cut of pork, roasted with a firm crust and with a delightful honey glaze on top. With a smidgen of fat clinging to the meat, the pork is juicy and tender, and the glaze tastes just right. Mastery also shines through on something as simple as braised tofu with morel mushrooms and lily bulbs; the dish impresses with its perfectly golden squares of tofu, anointed by sweet petals of the lily bulb and dotted with dried morel mushrooms, which offer extra earthy notes to this classic vegetarian dish.

The team at Lung King Heen are experts in matching traditional ingredients with innovative flavours. The crispy pork ribs with osmanthus is a play on the classic sweet and sour pork, the meat deep-fried and tossed in a sweet sauce flavoured with golden osmanthus flowers. Served on the side are fanned slices of the poached pears, sweet and cool with a fruitiness that complements the sweet floral flavours. Similarly, sweet plum sauce is rarely associated with seafood, yet with the roasted eggplant and scallops in spicy plum sauce, a tickle of chilli heat enlivens the dainty morsel of fried vegetables and shellfish.

In the name of innovation, chef Chan pairs black garlic with Sichuan flavours, seen and tasted in the wok-fried prawns with organic black garlic and dried chilli. The dark, fermented clove is sweet and creamy, with the slightest tinge of tartness, yielding to the dry heat of the chillies yet miraculously not overpowering the delicate freshness of shrimps; rather, it serves to enhance the sweetness they bring.

Sommeliers bring a wealth of knowledge to the table and are at the guests’ disposal on pairing recommendations. In some cases, they may even offer samples of unfamiliar wines as well as their suggestions for pairing. A visit to Lung King Heen brings a dining experience that seamlessly combines the efforts of the kitchen and service team—it’s one that exemplifies what a top restaurant should offer on any given day, delivering a lingering satisfaction all the way through.