Ester

The wood-fired oven is the quiet heart of this Chippendale favourite, its embers touching almost everything that lands on the plate. Oysters arrive roasted, glistening under a blanket of chicken-fat butter; raw mulloway glows with the citrus of flame-charred mandarins. Fat prawns come smoky and dripping in fermented shrimp paste, while grilled peas, fresh and bright, find surprising harmony with succulents and fragrant Geraldton wax.

There’s elegance in a fine tart of clothbound cheddar, and muscle in a scotch fillet that unites the unlikely worlds of bagna càuda and hot English mustard. Yet for all its range and technique, nothing here feels like showing off. Ester’s quiet magic lies in its understatement: the kitchen’s confidence smoulders rather than shouts, grounded in great ingredients and an instinctive understanding of fire.

The same low-key assurance extends to the room itself which is minimal, warm, humming with easy energy. From the playlist to the pours, everything feels deliberate, thought through, and deeply satisfying.

Tatler Tip

Walk-ins at the bar are perfect for last-minute snacking, but if you miss out, head to its sister venue, Poly in Surry Hills—more drinks-driven, equally delicious. Poly-Ester—yes, they went there. Thankfully, the food has a sharper sense of humour.