Peter Gago, Penfolds chief winemaker

Every year, Penfolds’ annual release of its wines is an event that collectors and connoisseurs keep a close eye on. Among the most anticipated is Penfolds Grange, the wine that is best described by English writer Hugh Johnson as “one of the only true First Growths of the southern hemisphere”.

Penfolds Grange has its modest beginnings in the early 1950s, when Max Schubert, the estate’s first appointed senior winemaker, returned from a trip to Bordeaux with the desire to create an Australian red wine that would rival those of France. This prompted the experimental 1951 Bin 1—“Bin” being a reference to the wine’s storage location in the cellars as it ages. It did not match Schubert’s expectations and Bin 1 was never commercially released. Rather, the subsequent 1952 vintage, or Bin 4, marked the beginning of Penfolds’ modern “dynasty of wines”.

Penfolds corks

Later vintages of Grange Hermitage—named for the cottage of the estate’s founder Christopher Penfold—carried various designations. By 1964, it was standardised as Bin 95. With the 1990 vintage, the name “Hermitage” (which was commonly used in Australia as a synonym for Shiraz or Syrah) was dropped, following objections from the European Union to the use of a French place-name. Today, Grange is synonymous with one of Australia’s greatest wines; its singular position in Australia’s wine landscape was further sealed when in 2001 the National Trust of South Australia listed Penfolds Grange as a Heritage Icon.

It is from this Bin 95 that the Bin Series and Icon & Luxury Collection takes its inspiration. This “bloodline” not only defines the estate’s style and philosophy, but also engenders a range of Bin wines that, as chief winemaker Peter Gago and his winemaking team would describe, share “an unmistakable resemblance and relationship to each other. It is this pedigree and lineage that lives on in the Bin range and makes it such a celebrated family of wines”.

Penfolds Bin 9 Cabernet Sauvignon

Today, the Bin numbers are little more than convenient numerical references, especially where lengthy wine names are harder for us to remember. Above this is the Icon & Luxury Collection, which represents the pinnacle of winemaking at Penfolds. Typically made from less than five per cent of grapes sourced that meet the most stringent criteria, these wines have excellent track records in cellaring.

Penfolds’ annual release garners the attention of the media and wine collectors the world over, and the 2014 release signifies 170 years of winemaking for Penfolds. The estate also commemorates the anniversary releases for two of its Bins—the 50th consecutive one for 2012 Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz, and the 20th anniversary of 2012 Bin 138 Barossa Valley Shiraz Grenache Mataro.

It also sees the debut of 2012 Bin 9 Cabernet Sauvignon, which joins the resurrected 2012 Bin 2 Shiraz Mourvèdre and the 2012 Bin 8 Cabernet Shiraz on the lower level of the Penfolds price strata.

Penfolds 2014 release 

The Bin wines in this year’s collection span three vintages: 2011, 2012 and 2013. Penfolds’ flair with multi-regional blending is underscored by the 2011 vintage, when quality suffered due to the worst and wettest weather since 1974. Bin 169 or Bin 707 from the Icon & Luxury Collection were not made that year, so Bin 407 and Bin 389 benefitted from the fruit relegated to them. Most of the Bin wines show delightful ripeness with excellent purity, focus and balance, although the 2011 does not fare as well in comparison.

On the Icon & Luxury level is the release of St Henri, RWT and Grange, all of which show extraordinary power and quality.

 

Icon & Luxury Collection

2011 RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz

The volume of RWT produced is typically less than Grange. Matured in both new and seasoned French oak, the wine is opulent and elegant, rich with spice, blueberry, rhubarb, and dark chocolate. Cellar for another year or two, up till 2030.

2010 St Henri Shiraz

Rich dark fruits, mocha and liquorice on the nose, with spiced red and black fruit flavours framed by fine-grained tannins on an expansive, complex and layered palate. It has extraordinary depth and persistency, and should cellar effortlessly for several decades. Drink now till 2060. Extraordinary

2009 Grange

A melange of bright red fruits slowly gives way to more profound aromatics evoking pepper, liquorice, and nuanced spice. The palate opens up with dark chocolate and mocha. Fresh fruit gives it a polished feel, rounding out to an impeccably balanced finish with fine, tight tannins. Cellar for a few more years, up till 2050. Excellent

 

The 2014 Bin Series

2013 Bin 311 Tumbarumba Chardonnay

Made from fruit harvested just on the cusp of physiological ripeness, this displays remarkable purity and aromatics. Pear, peach and grapefruit aromas and flavours are supported by an acid backbone with a firm mineral structure. Drink now till 2020. Must-try

2012 Bin 8 Cabernet Shiraz

Olive, raspberry, redcurrant and ripe red fruits dominate the nose and palate. An approachable, early-drinking wine matured in oak previously used for Bins 128, 28 and 389. Drink now till 2020.

2012 Bin 9 Cabernet Sauvignon

This inaugural release of Bin 9 shows generosity of flavours, with a lovely, crunchy cherry and black fruit core and a touch of cedar. Accessible now, it should take on better flavour development and an added layer of complexity if cellared well for a few years. Drink now till 2025. Must-try 

2012 Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz

The nose opens up to blackcurrant, mint and spice, with a firm grip on the palate and a noteworthy tactile sensation. Maturation in French oak brings out the wine’s spicy, peppery fruit characters. Drink now till 2030. 

2012 Bin 138 Barossa Valley Shiraz Grenache Mataro

On the nose, there’s red cherry, blackberry, and raspberry. Some lifted spice and pepper is perceived on the palate, framed by lively acidity and fine, firm tannins on a medium-full body. Drink now till 2025.

2011 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz

Bin 389 is also affectionately known as Baby Grange as some barrels used for the latter are used to mature this wine. Time-proven to age extremely well, the 2011 vintage has good focus and density, with generous, sensual characters and a broad palate. Cellar for a year or two, till 2030. 

2011 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon

Bin 407 benefits from the fact that no 707 were made in 2011, which means the fruit otherwise meant for 707 has been relegated here. Appealing aromatics and fruit richness on the palate evoke tomato, capsicum and cedar, rounding out on a sweet fruit finish.  Drink now till 2025.

 

 

For pricing and availability, contact Treasury Wine Estates, Tel: 6256 1132

Images: Penfolds