The science within art: A forensic scientist turned master whisky blender

For Fernandez-Thomson, nosing and tasting whiskies carries as much scientific analysis as it does artistic intuition. “When I’m nosing and tasting, I’m essentially sort of dissecting the liquid and looking for each of the different flavour compounds and what they bring to the whisky.”

A pivotal moment that cemented her path in her whiskymaking career was being involved in the process of production, putting her mark on the liquid every step of the way, tasting and nosing cask samples, bringing them back to the lab and working on a bottle release. “That was really the turning point for me, making something that was in a bottle that people could pour and enjoy.” 

Her mark on the whisky industry is not done yet, with her experimenting with a variety of different modern whisky techniques to bring new flavours into your dram. Pushing and bending the (very strict) rules of the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA), she experiments mainly with different casks and woods as a means of research and development.

“Experimentation with casks is honestly one of my favourite parts of the job,” she says. “I’m always sort of looking at trends. I like to be one step ahead and try to buy a really experimental cask, maybe ones that you’re not meant to use with the hope that the SWA will then change the rules.”

Although wood is her favourite mode of experimentation, she enjoys the chemical aspect of yeast stains and fermentation times, looking at the different flavour profiles that emerge when experimenting with different yeast strains and fermentation times. She has been instrumental in developing new and experimental whiskies across her portfolios, and has led the creation of 25 limited-edition whiskies and two additions to the core range of Bunnahabhain, Tobermory, Ledaig, and Deanston malts, as well as Black Bottle and Scottish Leader blends.

Viewing it as a mix of art and science, her scientific background gives her a methodological approach to understanding flavour. In the final stages of fermentation before blending and bottling, one of the toughest parts of the job is deciding when it is ready. Many might say that it is a truly creative act, purely instinctual, others might argue it is a skill. Fernandez-Thomson argues that it’s both, but more importantly, set and setting matters more than you think. She emphasises the importance of nosing and tasting the whiskies at different moods in different environments. Although there have been many lightbulb moments where the whisky tells you that it’s ready, some need second tastings, different environments, and breathing time to shine.

For Fernandez-Thomson, what makes a good blend is patience. Truly delicious whisky is not something rushed. “You’ve got to be patient at that initial stage to actually let the whisky get to where it is before it’s ready; that patience is needed when that whisky is in the glass. There are some blends that aren’t flashy at the first sip. You nose them and taste them, and there’s plenty of flavours there, but they don’t show it straight away.” As a Master Blender, her greatest tip for enjoying a glass of whisky is “having the patience to sit back and enjoy it, and not just take the first sip as gospel of what that blend is.” 

The Master Blender speaks openly about her desire to break traditional barriers in the Scotch whisky industry—previously an elitist, male-dominated space.

“Years ago, you always had to drink it neat. Now, there’s absolutely no right or wrong way to drink whisky.” This is in line with whisky moving to a more modern space, with younger consumers, a focus on sustainability and seeing more whisky cocktails beyond your average sour or Old Fashioned.

CVH Spirits has seen a massive movement into their sustainability programme, as with many other distilleries in recent years. CVH Spirits in particular has seen installation of biomass plants and generating their own electricity, as Deanston does. Working with their cask, yeast, water and packaging suppliers are just some of CVH Spirits’ efforts towards becoming a net zero company.

Besides moving the company towards a more innovative and modern direction, whilst still maintaining their history and traditions of Scotch whisky, Fernandez-Thomson is pushing her own boundaries for women within a male-dominated industry. Her objectively impressive achievements, regardless of age or gender, come with no secret but hard work and talent. Not only does she strive to make whisky accessible, but she is unapologetic about being a woman and mother, and stands firm on owning your own space as a woman. 

“You do not need to fit in. I think people think that they need to conform to a certain stereotype or a certain look, like an older man with a beard,” she laughs. “Don’t be afraid to ask questions and form your own opinions and your own style. For me, it's all about being curious.”

Fernandez-Thomson exudes many of the endearing qualities that you might find in a great whisky. Walking through the shopping centres, she makes verbal notes to herself whenever she passes a toy shop to buy souvenirs for her children and remembers her colleagues’ favourite foods when shopping for food gifts. Unabashed by the love she has for the people around her, she shows it, consciously or not. Through her attentiveness, boldness, patience and refusal to conform to everyone’s taste buds, she creates a life for herself that mirrors the rich and complex spirits she crafts. 

NOW READ

How pioneering godfather of Japanese whisky Taketsuru Masataka’s cross-cultural love story shaped Nikka Whisky

Whisky 101 with Andrew Brown, distillery manager of Bunnahabhain

The science behind your hangovers, and how to avoid them