Where: Naoussa, Macedonia, Greece

Why: Xinomavro (pronounced ksee-NO-mah-vroh) has been called the nebbiolo of Greece and indeed shares many traits with the perfumed, tannic enigma of Piemonte. The designation of origin Naoussa in Macedonia (in northern Greece, not the separate country North Macedonia) is likewise hilly and unexpectedly continental compared to our fantasy of sun kissed Greek islands. Despite the name, which means “sour black,” the wine itself is not typically very dark coloured, though it does pack an acidic punch. Its formidable tannins lend it Barolo-like longevity (without the corresponding price tag), making it the ideal mystery BYO wine. However, more modern expressions made with the flattering gloss of new oak (Alpha Estate) or softening lees stirring (Kir-Yianni Kali Riza) help yield wine that’s drinkable earlier and a winning choice for a summer barbecue. 

Which: Kir-Yianni Kali Riza, Alpha Estate, Foundi Estate, Chateau Pegasus

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Where: Loire Valley, France

Why: The Loire Valley, Bordeaux’s lush northern neighbour, has recently proven itself a fertile ground for everyone from the funk-hunting “terroiriste” to the fine wine lover bored with the traditional trifecta of Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhône. When you’re missing that familiar fruit and herb combo of Bordeaux but can’t quite handle the accompanying body, oak and tannins, Chinon – made of 100% cabernet franc – delivers a similar aromatic mix but with a vernal lightness. Its similarly franc-focused cousins Bourgeuil (typically a little darker, heavier and more rustic) and Saumur Champigny (usually juicier and more fruit-focused) complete the spectrum of “same but different” wines from this lush, castle-studded playground of the French aristocracy. The easy drinking bottles make great pre-dinner reds; while the serious bottles are a great food-friendly stand-in for classed growth Bordeaux.    

Which: Fun and easy: Charles Joguet Cuvée Terroir, Domaine Breton Chinon Beaux Monts, Olga Raffault Les Barnabés; Top end: Charles Joguet Clos de la Dioterie, Olga Raffault Les Picasses

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Where: Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, Australia

Why: Grenache, despite being one of the world’s most widely planted grapes and the star of several fine wine regions (Chateaneuf du Pape, Priorat, etc.), is a victim of its own versatility. Sometimes ponderous and almost gooey other times frivolous and gulpable, and occasionally transformatively lovely, it is a grape in need of better definition. In South Australia, a cohort of producers have begun to recognise its advantages as a drought-resistant grape that can produce wines of great delicacy, taking it beyond its typical role as one component of the ubiquitous GSM blend. The new grenache tends to be made from older vines, often grown on sandy soils that boost aromatic potential or on cooler sites that help retain acidity. The results are somewhat pinot noir like, but with sturdier fruit and a shimmering quinine and white pepper spice – like a craft cocktail without the need for a hard-shake. 

Which: Cirillo Estates 1850 Ancestor Vine Grenache, Yangarra Ovitelli Grenache (made in ceramic eggs for an unadulterated but mellowed expression), S.C. Pannell

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Where: Various, Chile

Why: The fruits of a similar lust for site-expression and purity, the Rhône-influenced wines of Chile – some idiosyncratic blends, some varietals – are a clear break from the mainstream of Chilean wine, which has typically focused on creating affordable versions of internationally recognised, popular styles. The winemakers involved tend to be “terroir hunters” – pioneers like Pedro Parra of Clos des Fous and Pencopolitano on the lookout for great but underexplored regions blessed with fortuitous natural conditions for the vine. Their pet varieties like Cinsault and Carignan tend to be overlooked even in their countries of origin. The wines deliver a vividness, with clearly delineated tart berry fruit backed up with tonic herbs, spices and moist earth notes and unadorned with cosmetic treatments like new oak. In the spirit of adventure, even the slightly pricier among these wines would make an excellent choice for an early evening picnic or boat trip (just make sure you have a cooler so you can serve them lightly chilled). 

Which: De Martino Viejas Tinajas Cinsault, Clos des Fous : Caquenina, Pour Ma Guele (ridiculously good value); Pedro Parra Pencopolitano

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