Cover The Louis XIII Experience at Yun House. Photo: Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur.

As if crafting a pairing menu weren’t enough, Yun House at the Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur ups the ante by naming a dining room after Rémy Martin’s Louis XIII. Pay a pilgrimage to the shrine to herald the king of cognac.

The Louis XIII Room at Yun House is full of music, but not in the conventional sense. Musical instruments are absent, replaced instead by tinkling laughter, clinking cutlery, and a sonorous ringing reminiscent of Tibetan singing bowls. “Clink the bottom of your bowl, not the rim of your glass!” instructs Chris Kwek, private client director of Louis XIII in Southeast Asia. Though we are but a third of the way through our bottle of Louis XIII, the ambience is festive.

“I am really excited and proud,” announces Kwek. “This is our first partnership in Southeast Asia, or Asia for that matter, with a luxury five-star hotel to showcase the best way to enjoy the king of cognac. But as I’m sure you already know, Louis XIII isn’t just any cognac, the same way that The Four Seasons isn’t like any other hotel chain.”

Raising a glass to Kwek, Tom Roelens, general manager of the Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur says, “This is an important partnership for us. It’s been in the books way before we even opened the property. After all, Louis XIII and the Four Seasons share a similar clientele—people who appreciate the best in life. Today, we’ve prepared a menu that’s commensurate with a great beverage.”

"Louis XIII isn’t just any cognac the same way that The Four Seasons isn’t like any other hotel chain.”

Tatler Asia
Above Braised Lobster with Lily Bulbs and Truffle Oil. Photo: Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur.

Delicacies include the Four Seasons Combination Platter, a medley of crispy foie gras, silverfish and mushrooms; a fish maw soup anchored by the biggest abalone I’ve ever laid eyes on; tender braised lobster blanketed under truffle shavings; coral garoupa nestled in a dim sum basket; and springy strands of fish-paste noodles. Jimmy Wong, executive chef of Yun House, pops into the private room just long enough for us to ask him about the seafood-centric menu.

“Surf instead of turf, so as to not overshadow Louis XIII’s nuances,” explains the pony-tailed chef in colloquial Cantonese.

Sure enough, Louis XIII’s flavours are placed at the forefront. A single whiff of the amber liquid brings apricot and honey to mind. Secondary aromas include cedarwood and tea leaves. As for flavours? An image imprinted on my mind sums it up: that of the explosive fireworks at the grand opening of the Four Seasons Hotel.

Tatler Asia
Above Steamed Coral Garoupa Fillet with Scallion Oil. Photo: Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur.

‘The Louis XIII Experience’ is designed to be shared among 10 participants (RM28,888 inclusive of a 70 cl decanter) but can also be enjoyed by the solo adventurer (RM3,000 with two 60 ml glasses). Come for lunch or dinner, but ring 03-2382 8888 to make reservations prior.