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Toby Marion of Golden Gate Wine explains why American wine and other new world wines are just as good for an investment as they are for drinking

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Traditionally, if you’re looking to make a wine investment, it is very likely you’ll be looking at old world wines to stock your wine cellars to ensure a sound investment. Today, there is a new wave of new world wines gaining headway ranging from America, Canada, Australia, Chile, we’re seeing them fetching the big bucks in auctions and wine stores, and trust us, the name of these wine labels are no longer restricted to Opus One and Robert Mondavi.

To better understand new world wines, we speak to American wine distributor Toby Marion of Golden Gate Wine on all matters wine-related, including where to seek American wines, which new vineyards to look out for, American wines as an investment and characteristics and classifications of American wines, and how they differ from their older, historical liquid gold counterparts from Europe.

Asia Tatler: As a wine investment, how do American wines compare with old world wines in the market?

Toby Marion:
 Perhaps the key difference is that American wines are excellent value for money. American wines are of great quality whether it is California Pinot Grigio at HK$70 per bottle, Central Coast Chardonnay at HK$140, Oregon Willamette Valley Pinot Noir at HK$280, or ultra-premium, rare and collectible California Napa Valley or Russian River Valley wines from HK$500 to HK$2,000 a bottle. In each category, blind tastings against similar priced old world wines will often result in a strong preference for the American wines, particularly for reds.

Also, the European approach is to name wines after regions and makers, or châteaux. It takes a committed sommelier to know the makers and qualities of wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Piedmont, Rioja or the Mosel. Instead, it’s much easier to learn Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling or Zinfandel. The result is a worldwide movement to market wine by varietal, and even the French have started to do this in recent years.

So while we will always appreciate that the history and culture of wine came from Europe, American wines are enjoyed as equals in quality and often better value than old world wines (and they’re easier to understand!).

Read why en primeur Bordeaux wines are a good investment here.


Asia Tatler: What are the leading American brands that have commanded the top prices?

Toby Marion:
 Included are Far Niente, Rubicon (soon to be renamed Inglenook, recapturing one of the oldest and finest labels in Napa Valley), Opus One and Robert Mondavi. For cult wines, this will be Screaming Eagle and Harlan Estate.

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Asia Tatler: What are the defining qualities of American wine?

Toby Marion:
 American wines tend to be more vibrant and heavier bodied than their European counterparts. The aromas and flavours in American wines – such as stone fruit, nutmeg or violets and tobacco – are also easier to recognise. 

Asia Tatler: What are the characteristics of wines that can be drunk now vs. an investment wine for later?

Toby Marion:
 Some wines are made to become better with age, some are not. Some of the wine names that are bought regularly include Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate, Far Niente, Rubicon and Opus One. These wines are judged to improve in quality as they age and to hold their value.

Learn more about Australian wines and read why they are a good investment.


Asia Tatler: What are the dominant wine regions in America? With the ever-changing climate, are we seeing a change in flavours and quality?

Toby Marion: 
America produces wines all around the country, however California produces 90% of the wines, Oregon 4% and Washington 4%. These are the three major regions. 

California is an enormous state, and thus can produce all sorts of different types of wine. Napa Valley is most famous for its Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. However, you can get world class Pinot Noir nearby in Russian River Valley. Oregon is north of California and is at the same latitude as Burgundy. So they produce cooler climate styles of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris. Further north in Washington (which borders Canada), you can find Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Rhone varietals such as Syrah, and Viognier, and even more experimental varietals like Tempranillo and Malbec.

 

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Asia Tatler: Where are the vineyards to look out for in the future?

Toby Marion:
 The Willamette Valley in Oregon for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. I would look out for the Walla Walla, Columbia, Yakima and Red Mountain regions in Washington State for Bordeaux, Rhone and Riesling style wines.

Asia Tatler: Lastly, with the abolition of wine tax in Hong Kong, how has it affected the price of wine, and what are your thoughts on the effect it has on wine prices in the future?

Toby Marion: 
With the abolition of tax, retailers and wholesalers also dropped the prices of their wines, making them more accessible to everyone. This has also led to auction houses moving into Hong Kong, which means the average value of wines being sold in Hong Kong is far higher than any other country. And lots of enthusiasts are taking courses in wine appreciation. 

As top new world wines tend to cost 10 to 20 percent of their French equivalents, and the mark-ups at restaurants and hotels remaining high, I predict that more people will enjoy new world wines at home. 
 

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