Why just one variety? “In my opinion, it mostly has to do with wastage; bread is a very delicate thing to have in a high-end restaurant and we chose to go with a signature bread that represents our style,” he explains. “We have full control of the baking process to minimise wastage and control the quality. Additionally, we get to create an exclusive product unique to our restaurant.”

Another bread you’d not likely find anywhere else is Cloudstreet’s version of a deceptively simple rye bread, made unforgettable with a coating of sticky molasses glaze flavoured with locally brewed stout and liquorice.

“We were having lunch at a restaurant in Sweden where they served a soda bread in a cast iron pan,” recalled chef-owner Rishi Naleendra, who first made his mark on the competitive local dining with his fine-casual concept Cheek by Jowl (now rebranded as Cheek Bistro). “That’s when I thought, instead of doing a sourdough, it would be nice to do something different,” he points out. Naleendra was confident the idea would work, having found success with a version of cheese bread for Cheek last year.

“I think, especially when you have a tasting menu, it’s nice to have a bread that’s not just there as a filler, but a memorable course on its own,” he stresses. Contrary to tradition, the bread is only served just before the meat course.

(Related: What Michelin Guide Singapore’s Newly-Minted Chefs Think About Our Changing Fine Dining Scene)

CULTURAL INSPIRATIONS 

Tweaking or elevating a classic recipe is a sure way to create the desired flavour and texture. It’s especially necessary if you’re looking for something specific yet unique to complement an equally complex cuisine style or menu. But if you’re looking to do as little as possible to an already ideal variety of bread, there’s the option to import a truly exceptional time-honoured variety. This is exactly what chef-restaurateur Beppe De Vito decided on when faced with the task of selecting the best bread for Braci.

“Bread is an essential part of the Mediterranean diet for millennia and an important part of the meal,” he stresses. “It might not play the flashiest role at the table, but it is the foundation of every meal; good bread paired with superb olive oil is key to me, as it sets the tone of a meal.” The cuisine he serves at Braci is progressive Italian. It also draws upon primitive cooking methods, utilising the Josper charcoal oven and the shichirin (a small Japanese charcoal grill). So, it would seem the ideal choice to go with a lighter bread, one that’s finished in the oven for a beautiful crusty char.

“We only use the very best bread, the prized Altamura bread that we import from Puglia,” De Vito asserts. “Paired with olive oil from my own olive farm in Italy, the taste is magical.”

To be sure, this is one of the best one can get, a naturally leavened bread made only from durum semolina wheat from Altamura, located in the province of Bari in the Apulia region. It follows an ancient recipe (dating as far back as 37 BC) that’s been passed down through generations of local bakers and is the only bread in Europe to be granted a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status, shares Braci’s chef de cuisine Mirko Febbrile. Not only is production and the source of wheat and water used regulated, even the featured yeast and salt must be from the region. What all these translate to on the palate is a delicate, fluffy crumb that boasts a slight sourness at the start, which gives way to a hint of nuttiness. Divine as it already sounds, it is its precise three-millimetre crust that elevates the experience.

(Related: Why Third-Wave Breads Matter)

It’s a luxury not to be taken lightly. And while some can necessitate such an indulgence, chefs like Dannel Krishnan of The Nomads, a contemporary Central Asian dining concept, have chosen to adapt.

“Aside from paying homage to traditional dishes and ingredients found along the Silk Road, the menu also represents our sojourn in Kazakhstan, where we were fortunate enough to have tasted some incredible food and experienced wonderful hospitality,” shares Krishnan. One such representation comes in the form of the “nomads’ nan”, an adaptation of the restaurant’s Kazakh founders’ family recipe. It uses flour that is fermented overnight with yogurt to intensify the flavours. Finished with a light brushing of lemon glaze, this aromatic bake (also referred to as patir or lepeshka) pairs perfectly with butter churned with rendered Wagyu beef fat.

“We’ve retained some aspects of the traditional methods and ingredients but have made it relevant to the local palate,” Krishnan reveals. “We’ll also be doing different variations of the tandyr nan (a tandoor-baked flatbread native to Uzbek and Afghan cuisine) in the near future, as it is in line with the flavours you’ll find in that region, so we can tell our story.”

What delicious tale will you be chewing on the next time your bread is served?

*Editor's Note: Most of these breads are also currently available for takeaway or delivery.