The King of Fish

It is often said Malaysians ‘live to eat’. Which is probably why food in Malaysia is more than just a gastronomic adventure, it is a way of life. And who can blame them, living in a country of culinary delights, where sights, smells and flavours tempt one’s taste buds 24/7!  From humble street stalls to chic eateries and gourmet restaurants, Malaysia’s variety of cuisines truly reflect the unique diversity of the country’s cultures…cooking up a delightful experience that leaves one wanting more!

The Sultan fish, also known as ‘Mad Barb’, ‘Hoven’s Carp’ or Jelawat in Malay, and Leptobarbus Hoevenii by its scientific name, is a native freshwater species found in the rivers of Malaysia, Thailand and Laos. Very popular during the 1970s and ’80s especially in Chinese restaurants, the fish ironically still does not have a Chinese name. It is believed to have been named ‘Sultan fish’ because it was served only to the sultans and royals.

High in Omega-3 oil, the fish can reach up to 60cm long and although bony, boasts a very delicate flesh that offers a unique sweetness and a pleasant savoury or umami taste. And the most exquisite is none other than the belly, where a layer of fat just under the skin melts beautifully when steamed. For the fish connoisseur, it is recommended that the fish to be consumed be a minimum of 1.5kg as then, the bones are more easily visible and the flesh, more delicate for a cotton soft but firm texture.

Wild Sultan fish feed on fruit figs or buah ara in Malay, that drop into the river from nearby trees. It is this process which enhances the fish’s unique sweetness and umami taste. Malaysian Jelawat are whitish silver with a bigger body and belly while the Thai Jelawat have red on their tails and the fins beneath.  

I believe that a good meal goes beyond just great tastes. Here are a couple of delicious recipes to demonstrate the different methods of cooking the fish that showcase how ordinary ingredients can produce an extraordinary meal that makes a great feast for the eyes.   

CRISPY RIVER SULTAN FISH WITH SUPREME SOY SAUCE
(serves 10)

Ingredients:

| 1.2 kg River Sultan fish
| 2 litres Cooking oil

for supreme soy sauce
| 30 ml Kikoman soy sauce
| 30 ml Fish gravy
| 30 ml Light soya sauce
| 3 cloves Garlic whole
| 20 gm Rock sugar
| 3 g Fish seasoning
| 1 g White pepper – grounded
| 300 g Fish stock
| 100 ml Chicken broth

for garnishing
| 3 g Spring onion julienne
| 3 g Chinese parsley
| 3 g ‘Bentong’ ginger julienne – fried crispy
| 2 g Carrot julienne
| 2 g Red chilli julienne
| 2-3 pcs Cherry tomato – halved and seared

Steps:

1. Scale, gut and clean the fish before cooking.
2. Stir-fry whole garlic in hot oil till lightly brown, then pour in the already-mixed ingredients for supreme soy sauce to boil in the wok. Season to taste.
3. Mix all prepared garnishes together and soak in chilled water then drain dry and leave in the fridge before use.
4. Fry the fish in oil over high moderate temperature until the skin turns golden brown and crispy on the outside but still moist on the inside.
5. Pour the supreme soy sauce onto the fish and garnish with spring onion, Chinese parsley, carrot, red chilli, crisped julienne of ginger and cherry tomatoe

STEAMED RIVER SULTAN FISH WITH SUPREME SOY SAUCE
(serves 10)

Ingredients:

| 1.2 kg River Sultan fish
| 80 gm 'Bentong' ginger – minced

for supreme soy sauce
| 30 ml Kikoman soy sauce
| 30 ml Fish gravy
| 30 ml Light soya sauce
| 20 g Rock sugar
| 3 g Fish seasoning
| 1 g White pepper - grounded
| 300 g Fish stock
| 100 ml Chicken broth

for garnishing
| 3 g Spring onion julienne
| 3 g Chinese parsley
| 2 g Carrot julienne
| 2 g Red chilli julienne
| 2 g ‘Bentong’ ginger julienne – fried crispy

for fragrance
| 30 ml Fragrant shallot oil – for sizzling
| 1 tbsp Sesame oil

Steps :

1. Scale, gut and clean the fish before cooking
2. Steam the fish with minced Bentong ginger for approximately 25 minutes.
3. Mix all ingredients for supreme soy sauce into a bowl and bring to boil in the wok then season to your taste.
4. Mix all prepared garnishes together and soak in chilled water then drain dry and leave in the fridge before use.
5. Sizzle the garnishes in hot fragrant shallot oil. Pour the sauce onto the fish. Garnish and enhance with fragrant sesame oil before serving.  

This article originally appeared in the May 2013 issue of Social Bites, a supplementary magazine of Malaysia Tatler