Krisztian Tabori/Unsplash
Cover Krisztian Tabori/Unsplash

Tatler Singapore looks at how tacos have gone from being a niche food obsession—previously confined within Mexico—to one of the most popular dishes on the island

Imagine a warm, fat-laden tortilla generously stuffed with umami shredded pork. Or smoky, tender lamb barbacoa tucked in a crisp hard shell. Or a perfectly charred corn tortilla with a deep, savoury richness that can’t quite be replicated. Or maybe a burrito dripping with salsa and succulent juices, whose piquant beefiness permeates the fresh flour tortilla. No matter what type of taco you desire, the beauty is that the variations are inexhaustible. Despite their simple nature and filling, tacos punch above their weight in the taste department.

From a low-key taco stand to the most ostentatious restaurant, the tortilla-bound meal is ubiquitous in Mexico and are usually sold from dawn till twilight. And the global taco scene is more vibrant than ever, thanks to a slew of glorious taco pictures flooding social media and trending hashtags like #TacoTuesday or #Tacosarelife. According to Super Loco Group’s executive head chef Randy Torres, tacos have become widely popular because of how adaptable, quick and unpretentious they are.

“The beauty of tacos is that they are so versatile, making the taco possibilities truly limitless”, he declares.

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The origins of the beloved taco can be traced back to the Mexican silver mines in the 18th century. According to eminent tacos expert and author Jeffrey M. Pilcher, the first type of taco was “taco de minero”. The word “taco” referred to the tiny pieces of paper that the miners would wrap around gunpowder and insert into holes in the rock face m when they were mining for ore.

During this period, California saw a huge influx of Mexican immigrants who started selling tacos to festival-goers and tourists. Then in 1952, Glen Bell started selling tacos from a stand he called Taco-Tia, which marked the beginning of a major taco revolution. Later in 1974, Raul Martinez converted an old ice cream truck into a mobile taco station, which he parked outside of a Los Angeles bar. Within six months, he hit pay dirt and opened a restaurant, King Taco. Taco trucks began to proliferate the streets of California and the southwestern US, marking the ascension of the humble dish.

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Tacos have gone from being a niche food obsession, previously confined within Mexico, to one of the most popular dishes globally. And this developing culinary trend is making waves in Singapore’s dining scene. Increasingly, restaurants across the island like Super Loco and Papi’s Taco are offering discerning consumers more nuanced ways to enjoy the humble taco through eclectic combinations of ingredients. Chefs are making it more relatable to locals, through slight variations and the addition of certain ingredients.

“It’s exciting to see people having their own interpretation of what a taco could be, there are unlimited combinations to create a taco,” adds Papi’s Tacos chef Maurice Espinoza.

“The tacos we make at Papi’s have its origins from Tlaxcala, my hometown and the recipes are inspired by the cooking of my mum and my grandmother.” All sauces, guacamole, pico de gallo and marinades are made in-house daily. Like a taqueria in Mexico where the taqueros would have a chat with their customers while making the tacos, the counter seats at Papi’s are the best seats in the house.

“For us at Papi’s, we want to replicate this street food style concept (like a taqueria) as close as we can in Singapore, so people wouldn’t have to make a trip to Mexico,” concludes the chef.

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At Super Loco Singapore, the restaurant pays homage to the legacy of the indigenous taco by introducing it to contemporary techniques.

“We usually start off with an understanding of Mexican flavours before tweaking elements to retain core flavours with a Loco touch. Changes usually include adding bamboo ash to our tortillas for added smokiness, swapping out fruits in our salsas for a different zing, and experimenting with homemade sauces to complement the fillings used.”

Additionally, the sustainability element sets Super Loco apart, with many vegetarian-friendly variations that even sworn meat lovers will vouch for.

“Ever since we embarked on our Loco Green Steps journey, we’ve been making it a point to use locally sourced produce as much as we can such as greens from urban farmers, fish from a certified sustainable local fishery and only using free-range chickens across all our outlets. We’ve also been exploring plant-based meat alternatives to substitute the usual pulled meat tacos”, declares chef Randy Torres. For the coming Earth Month, the brand has collaborated with Fable Food, a mushroom protein brand from Australia, to showcase vegetable-based plates with the Fable Al Pastor Taco.

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Over at El Mero Mero, culinary director Luis Rodríguez says their tacos were born out of a desire to bring a part of  Mexico to Singapore.

“We make our own tortillas exactly like in Mexico and choose the best ingredients to go inside. We offer a unique experience that makes you travel from your seat to Mexico in one bite. That's our style and that's what makes us unique,” Rodríguez says.

With social media influencers and gourmands across Singapore regaling us with indelible images of soft, white corn tortillas oozing with scrumptious stuffings in a kaleidoscope of colours, no doubt this exciting culinary movement is here to stay for a long time.

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