Nove is hardly a traditional dim sum parlour, even though it looks the part. The menu is in both Chinese and English, a big plus for the establishment. Restaurant offerings split between a selection of dim sum and Chiu Chow marinated meat dishes. We began our meal with dim sum, which are made fresh every day. We started with classic shrimp dumplings. Best known for being fiddly to make, the filling of shrimps and bamboo shoots was well-proportioned and the translucent wrappers are even in thickness and beautifully pleated across the top. Steamed xiao long bao with seafood bisque are wonderful too. The wrappers are thin, holding the light broth with a light pork filling. We enjoyed the barbecued pork pineapple buns too, but the crust could be a bit flakier in texture. Baked abalone and cheese tarts were highly recommended, was largely disappointing. The sweet pastry was on point with a short crust, but the diced abalone was rubbery and the cheese filling was a runny custard slightly savoury in taste with barely any cheese flavour.

The real star of Nove lies in its Chiu Chow marinated offerings, such as the goose meat duo, where sliced goose meat is paired with a choice from offal to wings. The wings may need a little more cooking but the goose meat, sliced thin, are great in flavour with just the right hint of spices throughout. The goose head and neck may be an unseemly choice to order, but it is a truly wonderful dish that was perfectly executed. The goose heads, cut lengthwise into smaller pieces, are best as the spicy marinade permeates into the bony bits. The necks were even better, as they were served deboned. The tofu simmered in Chiu Chow marinade, however, was too soft and rather bland.

As casual an eatery as Nove is, the restaurant’s beverage list is more traditional with a handful of teas on offer. Pu’er tea was served in a petite copper teapot that kept the tea steaming hot throughout the meal. Phoenix mountain tea was served chilled in a carafe, a cooling fragrant beverage that matches well as a palate cleanser for the spicy Chiu Chow meat dishes. Guests who prefer wines will have one each of red, white, and sparkling but for a better dim sum experience we strongly recommend hot tea at Nove.

Service was a mixed bag, which is a pressing issue that needs to be addressed. The pacing of the meal was off as dishes tend to be delivered all at once, which can easily turn cold on the limited counter space. While members of the staff team are somewhat knowledgeable on the restaurant’s concept and signature dishes, they appeared to play favourites with regular customers and can be occasionally indifferent and absent-minded towards first-time guests like us.

Nove is a lovely new addition to chef Bombana’s fleet of establishments, as it excels in the food and drink offerings, but service needs much salvaging to ensure guests to feel welcome enough to return for more.

A meal for two with one beverage and service: around HK$800

Rating: 3/5 

How we rate
Each of our reviewers score restaurants based on four main criteria: setting, food, service, and drinks, taking into account more than 35 different points of reference including manners of staff, usefulness of the wine list, and whether or not the restaurant makes an effort to be environmentally aware. 5/5 indicates an exceptional experience; 4-4.5/5 is excellent; 3-3.5/5 is good to very good; and 2.5/5 or lower is average to below average. Before visiting a restaurant, the reviewers will book using a pseudonym and do not make themselves known to restaurant staff, in order to experience the venue as a regular guest—if this is not possible, or if we are recognised, we will indicate this in the review.