Dominique Ansel's new cafe is a creative success and an Instagrammer's dream
In 2011, I was working in Soho in New York City and was headed to my favourite cafe for a wagyu beef sandwich. But when I arrived, a bright yellow sign that read Dominique Ansel Bakery had replaced that of the unassuming little cafe. As my eyes grazed over the beautifully crisp croissants and pains au chocolat at the counter, they quickly settled on something. Laying in front of me was the kouign-amann, a buttery pastry native to Brittany that, at the time, was rarely seen outside its region. I saw this as a sign that the bakery was going to be the next go-to destination for French pastry lovers. Little did I know that not only was Dominique's take on the kouign-amann—called the DKA—going to become one of the chef’s signature desserts but that two years later, he was going to create the cronut that was going to send him into international stardom.
Nine years later, I am in Hong Kong and standing in front of Dang Wen Li, one of Dominique Ansel’s newest international outposts. Throughout the years, I have admired his ability to think outside the box, to reinvent classics and to make pastries fun and visual. With Dang Wen Li, a replica of his other stores is not to be expected. Though he has kept a few signature items like the DKA, the chef decided to try a new concept and pay tribute to Hong Kong’s food scene through delicate and realistic representations of some of the city’s most iconic dishes.
Dang Wen Li is here to offer an experience. Upon entering, you'll find a bright photo booth filled with burnt orange egg cartons, milk jugs and flour bags, just waiting to be the background of your next Instagram post. A line forms at the counter as customers take in the real life dessert clones of the pineapple bun, fish balls, Yakult bottles, dumplings and more. The cafe has a laidback Parisian chic vibe, with the classical music playing in the background only interrupted by the occasional sound of the blow torch toasting the pretend fish balls.