Harbour City’s new restaurant needs work on service to stand out in an arcade full of restaurants
Following the hot streak of restaurant openings since Rosewood Hong Kong and K11 Musea premiered, the Hong Kong debut of Amelia at Harbour City was timely, taking over the expansive space where Dining Concepts’ Al Molo formerly resided. Overlooking the harbour while neighbouring the celebrated Dang Wen Li by Dominique Ansel and Haku, The esteemed modern European establishment quietly opened its doors late last year, and we are curious how Paulo Airaudo planned to bring his eponymous restaurant to the dining capital of the East.
Amelia departs from the tasting menu format at the original restaurant in San Sebastian in Basque Country as the Hong Kong outpost sticks to a la carte offerings for the 130 guests the eatery seats, but a bigger question remains: What can we expect from modern European cuisine? The menu may shed some light on this. The menu begins with a wide selection of small plates, from Spanish charcuterie to tapas-style nibbles such as piquillo pepper confit, deep-fried wings stuffed with potatoes; and beef and oyster tartare. Charcoal-grilled octopus a la Gallega is a generous serving of the tentacle, slow-cooked and grilled, served atop a bed of potato foam. Beautifully charred on the outside and meaty inside, the soft texture was great thanks to the slow-cooking process. Razor clams are a tapas staple. Contrary to the large Scottish ones often featured on local seafood menus, the French razor clams are petite, finger-sized. The de-shelled clams were a tad chewy, but beautifully dressed in a vinaigrette enriched with seared cubes of chorizo sausages.