Tatler Asia

JAAN, the chic restaurant perched at the pinnacle of Swissôtel The Stamford, has introduced its new chef de cuisine - Chef Julien Royer, formerly of St Regis's Brasserie Les Saveurs. The 29-year-old follows the footsteps of several high profile culinary talents who have helmed this dining destination.

JAAN, the chic restaurant perched at the pinnacle of Swissôtel The Stamford, has introduced its new chef de cuisine - Chef Julien Royer, formerly of St Regis's Brasserie Les Saveurs. The 29-year-old follows the footsteps of several high profile culinary talents who have helmed this dining destination.
Royer, who comes from a family of farmers, has been given free rein to produce his ‘artisanal cuisine' - beautifully presented dishes with a strong focus on seasonal produce that he proudly sources himself. According to him, 60 per cent of the ingredients are imported from Europe and some from organic farms around the world. The chef who hails from Cantal, south-central France, also brings in cheese, cold cuts and meats from his hometown. "I like to make things simple by layering three or four flavours, and of course using good quality main ingredients. I also use less creams and butter to suit local palates," he tells.

One of his creations that stood-out was the ultra-tender salt marsh Welsh lamb saddle. The dish comprised a slab of slow-roasted saddle, placed alongside lamb belly with a caramelised glaze, and lamb fillet. The naturally salty and mild tasting meat was matched perfectly with the lamb jus, garlic and butter sauce plus a sliver of anchovy that lent a further salty dimension. Sharing plate space were violet artichokes, quinoa, and globules of apricot puree and lemon jelly that resembled precious pearls.

Another delicacy served was the handpicked Norwegian scallops that are flown in thrice a week. The plump seafood bundled together with roasted rosemary was succulent, sweet and slightly smoky - and married with droplets of apple cider and boudin noir (blood sausage).

The chef's version of foie gras was perfectly executed with the right amount of sweetness from the chestnut honey glaze. The foie was served with a medley of beetroot confit and beetroot meringue coated with yoghurt powder.

For a pleasant surprise, a cep mushroom tea was served between courses. A dollop of creamy sabayon was placed in a small teacup, and then topped with the ‘tea' made of dried mushrooms infused in hot water.

To round off the decadent meal, we were treated to ‘choconuts', a creamy, crunchy dessert composed of Jivara mousse, peanuts, and macadamia nut ice cream. It was a sublime end to a memorable meal. Royer's dishes are modern and well thought-out, marked by clean, pronounced flavours and arresting texture. Look out for his quarterly seasonal menus (prices start from $52 for three-course lunch). Swissôtel The Stamford, Singapore, 2 Stamford Road, Tel: 6431 6156