When you go out to buy durians this season, make sure you remember some of these important tips to help you choose the best.

Firstly, ensure that you don't choose a durian with a cracked bottom. There is a "high chance that it will be watery and that fermentation might have started," according to Ng, from Simply Enak.

You should also give your durian a good shake and listen for a knocking sound. This will tell you if the flesh is dry or creamy or if it is too moist and soggy. 

Finally, make sure that the stem is still attached to the fruit and that it is green and moist. This is how you can tell if the durian just fell from the tree or if it is old. The stem will look dry and dehydrated if your durian is not fresh. 

Of course, ensure that your durian is also not infested with worms and remember that you should not be charged if you find worms in the fruit.

When it comes to buying durians, we all know that there are a couple of popular varieties such as Mao Shan Wang and D24 that tend to go around. However, did you know that there are actually 30 recognised species of durians in the wild? Out of that, only nine are edible. 

"There are many cultivators out there, which means durians are cultivated through cloning farming methods to get different looks and tastes," says durian enthusiast Lin. "They do this through trial and error naturally, but also through human intervention. There are many varieties in Thailand, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia, the Philippines and Singapore."

He continues: "Singapore has a few cultivators of their own. These are preserved in the Botanical Gardens and the NEA Nursery, but they are not made for commercial purpose so they are off-limits to the public."

However, as you might expect, it is the naturally grown ones that are more highly sought after—and as a result, most of Hong Kong's durians come from Taiwan, Malaysia, Thailand, the Philippines and Indonesia. 

"When it comes to Malaysian durians there are about 200 varieties that are commercially registered with MARDI which is the Malaysian Agricultural Research and Development Institute. Among these are the famous Mao Shan Wang (D197) and Black Thorn (D200)," Lin says. 

Related: Why Chinese Plums Are Ando's Pastry Chef Joanna Yuen's Favourite Local Ingredient

If you are still reading this, you are likely a fan of durian. However, if you aren't, there are so many types of durians out there—even variations for durian haters.

In fact, this is one of the main reasons why Lin enjoys learning about durians. 

"Just as there are many durian connoisseurs out there, there are just as many newcomers to the world of durians. From my past experience, I have encountered people of different nationalities with many preferences when it comes to the taste of durians. This is where my passion grew and how it became a hobby of mine to introduce new entrants to this mystical fruit," he shares.

Lin adds that his favourite way to introduce someone to durians is to let them try the Gang Hai durian, which he affectionately refers to as the "popcorn durian".

The reason for its name? "It’s because its seeds as small as popcorn, and I usually recommend that people try to eat it with one hand. Just pop the whole thing into your mouth and use your tongue to separate the pulp from the seed. It’s a good training exercise, similar to one we usually do when we tie a knot with a cherry stem in our mouths."

Lin describes the texture as paste-like with a taste that is mild and sweet, and does not become mushy even when left out for a while. Lin recommends refrigerating the fruit before consuming it.

Across Asia, durian has been incorporated into everything from pizza and steamboats, to cheong fun and more. It's fascinating to some and utterly gross to others. 

"When it is in season, I like to add durian into my fried rice and serve it with sambal belacan. It goes pretty well together," quips Simply Enak's Ng.

You can even pair durian with a well structured white wine for the best flavours. Just remember not to overindulge with this combination as some people say that alcohol can prevent durians from breaking down in your body. This can result in a pretty bad hangover if you are not careful.

See also: A Taste Of Home: Restaurateur Mina Park On The Hong Kong Dishes and Dining Spots She Longs To Revisit