Cover Photo: Dayana Wong

Wong’s first cookbook sheds light on the rich culinary culture of street food in Penang

Born and bred in Penang, Dayana Wong is the author of Penang Makan: Heritage Street Food Recipes, a cookbook celebrating traditional family recipes and beloved hawker culture associated with the state. The book recently won the prestigious Gourmand Awards 2022 in the category of street food. Released under Bulan Press, a publishing house founded by Dayana Wong and her partner, Penang Makan is also Wong’s first cookbook. 

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What sparked your culinary journey? 

I’ve always loved cooking since I was a child. The earliest memory I have of cooking was when I was about 7 years old. I wanted to help my grandmother in the kitchen but I accidentally sliced my little finger while cutting some onions. But that did not deter me from entering the kitchen again. 

Growing up, I was fortunate enough to eat the food cooked by my maternal and paternal grandmothers. I might not have been able to cook much on my own, but I liked to make my own dinners, easy things like heating up soups, frying fish fingers or making homemade nuggets.

I started to take cooking more seriously when I was studying abroad. Being away for the first time, I could only soothe my homesickness by cooking food that reminded me of home. I would call my mum up and ask her how to cook my favourite prawn sambal or chicken curry.

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Tell us more about Penang Makan: Heritage Street Food Recipes.

Writing a book was something I had always wanted to do. When I was abroad, yearning for a taste of home, I realised there wasn’t a cookbook detailing the food I grew up eating. That was how I decided to write and compile the food of my hometown, Penang.

Penang Makan is essentially a cookbook that contains all the famous street food you can get in Penang. I wanted to include as many recipes as possible, even those that are slowly disappearing such as kerabu bihun and duck kuay chap. I also wanted to feature new street food heroes like the Ramly burger and lok-lok (assorted sticks of food on pushcarts).

I really wanted the book to highlight the food culture of Penang, so I've also added little stories of my childhood revolving around cooking and eating with loved ones. I wanted the physical book to represent Penang through its vibrant colour and I chose the bunga kantan (torch ginger flower) as the cover because it’s a native flower that is used in assam laksa.

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Which recipe in the book is most meaningful to you? 

Choosing a single recipe out of the book is difficult, but the recipe that is closest to my heart is the one for cucur udang (prawn fritters) as it is my maternal grandmother's recipe. It’s one of the easiest recipes in the book—you can make it anywhere as the ingredients are easy to procure.

It’s not just the recipe that is dear to me but also the memory of eating cucur udang, as it reminds me of my late grandfather, who used to tear open his fritters and give me the prawns. 

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What is a dish you enjoy sharing with friends and family? 

Normally, I like to keep it simple and fast. Dishes like mamak mee goreng (stir fried noodles), kuay teow th’ng (noodle soup) and my beloved grandmother’s cucur udang are staples at dinner time.

For special occasions, my mum and I love slow cooking. Dishes taste better with more love, attention and time like beef rendang, kari kapitan, nasi lemak and curry mee.

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What are your hopes for the book? 

I hope Penang Makan: Heritage Street Food Recipes will shed some light on the amazing culinary diversity and excellence of Penang. I also hope that the book will inspire current generation to remember culinary traditions and pass them on. I believe food is a universal, so by sharing our food, we share our culture and our hearts.

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