Darren Chin refines Taman Tun dining with DC Restaurant
A fairly new restaurant by the name of DC Restaurant has sprung up in the neighbourhood of Taman Tun Dr Ismail serving French epicurean cuisine.
Headed by Chef de Cuisine Darren Chin, he and his team of dedicated chefs set the stage with their passion for culinary excellence on the second floor of the restaurant, which acts as the venue’s main dining room. Decorated elegantly with tones of black, white and wood, the second floor is a marriage of modern and classical styling.
Those seeking pure indulgence shouldn’t look further than the five-course tasting menu, a meal that celebrates all the virtues of good cooking as interpreted by Chin and his team. Take note that the menu changes weekly depending on the collaborative direction of the team in the kitchen. Diners are invited to listen to an auditory introduction by famed local radio personality Patrick Teoh before tucking into a selection of breads baked in-house.
The first course of the night that consisted of lobster ravioli was a welcoming sight. Creamy and rich but not overbearing, the lobster meat filling in the ravioli was subtle while the dumpling dough itself was chewy but light. Resting on a thinly sliced sheet of Canadian scallops and dressed in pear chervil tonka vinaigrette, potato leek cream and lobster butter, the dish itself proved to be a hearty starting course to build up an appetite without being too filling.
Moving forward to course number two, they executed an elaborate serving of a trio of popular French meats. Homemade duck saucisson with ganache de foie gras was packed with pleasant duck gaminess that complimented the richness from the foie gras. Chewy rosemary skewered escargots were subtle in taste with light touches of citrus dancing on the palate, a result of the raspberry walnut vinaigrette dressing used. The braised beef had an incredible texture with hints of curry reminiscent of rendang, resting on velvety and starchy parsnip purée.
One of the main stars was finally revealed during the third course. The first climax of the meal was the fish in cocotte, a two-part dish. The first featured a crusted fillet of kurau with spinach, semi dried tomatoes, Ratte potatoes and herbed bread crumbs cooked beautifully in a crockpot, while the second part was served on a plate that consisted of watercress, burnt cream, asparagus and endive crab rocket salad.
A burst of flavours from a single bite of the fish lit up the taste buds like fireworks. Its underlying skin was crispy and crunchy, while the fillet was moist, flaky and remarkably palatable. The spinach played extremely well with the kurau fish and the sauce added that extra “mmm” factor to an already delicious dish. The second part of the meal also provided many orally pleasing moments, with a great mixture of greens. Burnt cream working in harmony with watercress and asparagus worked like a charm, with the crab salad supplying a needed sweetness to balance out the dish.
Following such a high note, the next course arrived after a brief hiatus and turned out to be a well-known dish. Beef wellington, a popular steak dish typically coated with pate and then wrapped in a puff pastry, was the second climax of the night and it came served with Hokkaido red onion purée, roasted baby eggplant with anchovy cream and arrowroot chips. Rich and juicy, the cut of beef was tender, succulent and full on flavour. Lying on a bed of onion jam, which added an extra element of tanginess, the beef was the clear highlight of the dish, while the pastry surrounding the meat proved to be a tad too soggy. Pairing a forkful of beef with the pickled onion resulted in a wonderful burst of contrasting flavours. The roasted eggplant with anchovy cream was also another hit, adding diversification to the dish with different tastes and textures.
Lying on a bed of onion jam, which added an extra element of tanginess, the beef was the clear highlight of the dish, while the pastry surrounding the meat proved to be a tad too soggy. Pairing a forkful of beef with the pickled onion resulted in a wonderful burst of contrasting flavours. The roasted eggplant with anchovy cream was also another hit, adding diversification to the dish with different tastes and textures.
To signal the end of the indulgent five-course meal, the last dish to arrive was dessert — a slice of crème fraîche lemon tart, milky mousseline cream wafer with fresh lychee and manuka honey glaze. Smooth and not overpoweringly zingy, the lemon tart had a gentle lemon taste and dissipated in the mouth with a texture similar to mousse. The mousseline cream wafer, on the other hand, was crispy, delectable, light and even better when taken with the accompanying sorbet, which itself was refreshing and light.
DC restaurant is proof that Malaysian’s steadfast love for food is growing to new heights. For a culture that prides on having keen culinary tastes, it is always refreshing to find local chefs aiming to advance the local dining scene. Darren Chin uses his restaurant as a conduit to showcase his passion for good food done right and as a platform for locals to further expand their palate through his creations.
DC Restaurant is located at 44, Persiaran Zaaba, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur.
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