Full of fealty for his Francophone mentors, Masashi Horiuchi never strays too far from his classical chef training. But while Entier's executive chef may abide by methods that are à la française, much of the restaurant's innovative ingredients hail from Malaysia's own shores... or waters.
Cue T'lur tropical caviar, a hot commodity appearing on menus left, right and centre. The Tanjung Malim export is even responsible for birthing Entier's new brunch menu. From an audible appetiser of escargot croquettes to freshly shucked French white pearl oysters, some of the best bite-sized morsels here come topped with miniature toupées of caviar. The former, a clever repackaging of escargots au beurre persillé, are unequivocally delicious flavour bombs. As for the oysters? Flown south from Penang, the molluscs paired with quail's egg and caviar prove that freshness triumphs over a European postcode.
While pairing fried chicken with waffles is sacrosanct in the American South, Entier hopes to set a new precedent with other proteins. The panoply of culinary proceedings includes waffles served with duck confit, flank steak tartare, cured salmon or Maine lobster.
Wonderfully outfitted with individual 'wells,' waffles, unlike pancakes, crêpes or French toast, hold sauces — or runny egg yolk, as in the case of the steak tartare — exceptionally well. Chopped chives and crunchy beetroot cut through the richness of the raw, red meat.
The most ordered dish on the brunch menu, Entier's duck confit is blanketed in a sticky ginger glaze — every mouthful is equal parts sweet and savoury, fleshy and fatty. It is also thanks to this dish that we make a new epiphany, that jackfruit and foie gras make fast friends. We are told that the chef used to prize French fowl before discovering Bidor duck. And that's one of our favourite things about him — despite being quite set in his ways, Horiuchi is open to switches if it means making a better dish. The chef plays his ingredients like a jazzman, riffing and side-slipping, but never once deserting the underlying beat.