Quiet as a church in the hubbub of Persiaran KLCC, Brasserie Fritz serves stellar French fare, at times imbued with local flourishes
Well travelled and worldly, Christian Bauer and Eddie Chew of Troika Sky Dining are known for regaling rapt audiences with their tales of the road. Unsurprisingly, one or two in-jokes have rubbed off on their restaurants. Brasserie Fritz, for instance, came to be when two separate trains of thought crossed rails.
A giant among German movement artists, Pina Bausch planted the seed for the brasserie. According to Bauer: "Café Müller (one of Bausch's best-known works) got me thinking about Austrian cafés. Did you know that the café actually came from Austria, not France? So we thought, let's give it a funny name."
"Secondly, we have a friend who is very annoying," laughs Bauer. "We'll call him Fritz. When dining at this restaurant in Alberobello, he insisted on ordering a pasta dish that had nothing to do with the region." Dubbed Pasta à la Fritz, the offending dish served with bacon has made its mark on one of KL's best brasseries.
To welcome back Brasserie Fritz, we have dug up a review of the restaurant from our 2018 Tatler Dining Guide (see below). A recent visit confirmed that it is every bit as good as before.
The following review was originally published in 2018 Tatler Dining Guide:
A meal worthy of a mermaid, the Fritz Platter at Brasserie Fritz prompts a placebo effect: the scent of sea spray wafts over our party of three as the dish is scrupulously placed upon white tablecloth. Mussels, prawns, oysters, scallops and whelks are stripped of their shells and engulfed within mere minutes. Not called 'fruits of the sea' in French sans reason, the sustaining and soothing seafood sorts us out beautifully, though I suppose it could also be the effects of the champagne. A quintet of dipping sauces ranging from red wine vinaigrette to remoulade amplifies the image of extravagance, but the ramekins mostly lie untouched—cosmetics should not, after all, consort with natural perfection.
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