Introduction
Ever since he'd begun to make sense of the world around him, Pedro Samper has understood the power of food — how it defines home and how it returns us there, despite the ticking of time, air miles or geographical boundaries. And so a menu is born: a 'touchstone' to home and a 'thank you' to his mentors and colleagues in the UK, Ireland, Japan, and Hong Kong. We begin with the Bacalao "Brandada" & Caviar with Cod Fish on Charcoal Brioche, a 'same same but different' take on the salt cod dip typically eaten with toast points. A hearty dish turned dainty appetiser, it harks back to centuries ago when Basque fisherman had to haul their catch for miles inland, hence the need to preserve their seafood. Similarly, some backstory helps bolster our enjoyment of the Txangurro & Sea Urchin. Traditionally served in a spider crab's shell, the crab stew is now presented in a sea urchin's spiny husk — an idea that doesn't work as well in practice as on paper, as members of our party are visibly put off by the splinters sticking to their fingers. Thankfully, the eggshell in which the Tortilla de Patatas "Udaberri" is served is less of a mess. By calling it a 'springtime Spanish omelette,' Samper is alluding to the shavings of black truffle on top; Europe's black diamonds are ripe for picking in January and February, after all. Roasted peppers and anchovies, an evergreen pairing in Spanish cuisine, find new expression in the Antxoa & Boqueron de Getaria. And with this last saline snack, our appetites are full awake and anxious for more.